Why do bad things happen to good sliding doors? Why do some sliding doors to condominium decks and patios operate just fine for years then decide they prefer to be opened by a football line backer? It helps to understand the technology of their materials, how they are put together and they interact with their host building. Glass for sliding doors can be single pane in older models or double-glazed with argon gas as a middle insulator against thermal transfer. Door framing can be aluminum, vinyl, fiberglass, wood of vinyl-clad wood.. Metal sliders will normally have a thermal break between glass and metal frame to reduce thermal conductivity. Different rates of thermal expansion of the glass and the frame can induce twisting in the frame preventing it from riding smoothly in its track. You may find that identical products on one side of your building are working fine while those in a different thermal exposure on the other side of the building are tough to open.
Routine Maintenance
Dentists tell us that it’s important to brush along the gum line to remove debris. The same idea holds true for slider door tracks. I recommend an annual “brushing” out of the tracks and cleaning with solvent followed by a coating of silicone lubricant. Hit the rollers and locking hardware at the same time with a blast of lubricant.
Repairs
The reasons why sliding doors in condominiums become difficult to open and close are not many. Most involve either the rollers at the bottom of the door frame or the alignment of the door in the building. Check for:
·-Worn roller wheels from running over accumulated grit in the track
·-Vertical settlement of the building wall in which door is installed. Try compensating for this by using the two adjustment screws at the door bottom. You can elevate or drop opposing rollers so that the door runs parallel to the track.
For problems at the door sides:
·-Open the door about two inches and check the space between the door frame and the door jamb. It should be uniform when measured from top to bottom.
·-You may need to shim between jamb and building to get both plumb.
Rollers can be replaced if they are just too worn to fool around with. This involves lifting out the sliding portion of the door to remove the old rollers and install new ones. If there appear to be just an accumulation of poor alignments and worn out parts it may be wiser to simply replace the door with a new unit. Replacement can be included in your capital reserve fund plan.
Water Entry
Water entry through / around sliding doors is usually due to inadequate sealing between the rough opening between the building and the door unit. This demonstrates itself pretty dramatically in harsh exposures such as ocean side environments or hi-rise buildings where storm wind gusts at the upper floors can drive rain through door sides that are only nominally protected. Preferred practice in these cases is to install flashing to the wall sheathing, cover it with 6″ wide strips of plastic flashing material along sides, top and bottom. Over the plastic flashing place your regular building wrap. The strip at the top of the opening should overlap the side strip. In such environments we like to see weep holes at the bases of the walls so that any water driving into the door opening and running down this barrier will have quick pathway out.