Pate Island of Lamu in Kenya
Pate, an engaging mangrove island northeast of Lamu and Manda is one of those rare places where the cultural isolation equals the geographical seclusion, preserving an uncomplicated traditional lifestyle as much as by necessity as by choice.
The only foreigners who come to this island are dhow trippers and occasional archeologist, so you can expect to be a novelty and to be treated with friendly curiosity, especially by the local children. The local mosquitoes also appreciate fresh meat so bring insect repellent.
There are a number of historical sites on Pate Island including pate town, Siyu, Mtangwanda and Faza. All are still inhabited by fishers and mangrove-pole cutters
but very little effort has been put to preserving or clearing the remains of these once powerful Swahili city states.
Accommodation and food on the island are easy to arrange with local families, and there are one or two simple restaurants offering basic meals and tea. Pate town is a little more than a crumbling old settlement, but the Nabahani Ruins just outside town, are interesting, although they have never been seriously excavated or cleared.
Getting to Pate Vacation Island in Kenya
A motor launch leaves Lamu more or less daily for Mtangawanda (kshs50, about two hours), from which it’s about an hours walk to Pate town along a narrow footpath through thick bush and across tidal flats.
Boats continue to Faza (about another two hours) and Kizingitini (kshs150, another one hour), also stopping at the mouth of the channel to Siyu, where small boats transfer passengers to shore. Boats leave from the main jerry in Lamu town; times depend on the tides, but it can be quite tricky finding out where they go, as Swahili time is commonly used and every one you ask will tell you something different.
Coming back from Pate, ask locally to make sure the boat will be calling at Mtangawanda on the return trip. If not, you may have to wait an extra day.
Siyu Island Lamu in Kenya
Founded in the 15th century, Siyu was once famous as a center of Islamic scholarship and crafts, in its heyday (between the 17th and 19th centuries) It boasted some 30 000 inhabitants and was the largest settlement on the island. Today, however, less than 4000 people live here and there are few signs of its previous cultural and religious influence.
The modern village displays little of Siyu’s former glory , consisting of simple mud walled and makuti roofed houses, what does remain is the ruin of a huge crenellated fort ‘ which sits dramatically on the waterfront. Even third grand structure couldn’t halt Siyu’s demise in 1847, when it was occupied by the sultan of Zanzibar troops. The fort has been well restored and there are some Swahili relics inside.
South of Siyu is the intruding village of Shanga. Apparently settled by is a corruption of China).You’ll need local help to find it.
Getting to Siyu Island in Lamu
The boat from Mtangawanda to Faza stops at the mouth of the mangrove-lined channel leading up to Siyu, where some canoes transfer passengers to the village. From Lamu the fare is Kshs100. this service isn’t always available, so you may have to walk from Pate or Faza.
From Pate it’s about 8km to Siyu along a dirt track through the bush. The first part is tricky since certain turn-offs are easy to miss, so it is a good idea to take a guide with you as fare as tidal inlet (the boat captain can help to arrange this). From there on its easy, as the path bears left and then continue straight through to Siyu.
Faza Island of Lamu in Kenya
The biggest settlement on Pate island, Faza has a chequered history, being almost totally destroyed by pate in the 13th century and then again by the Portuguese in 1586. It was subsequently re-established and switched its allegiances to the Portuguese during there attempts to subdue as an administrative centre is breathing some life back in to the place.
The modern town is quite extensive and includes a post office, Telephone exchange, a simple restaurant, several general stores and two guesthouses. The only historical relic is the ruined Kunjanja Mosque on the creek next to the district headquarters.
Among the rubble are a beautifully carved Mihrab and some fine Arabic inscriptions. Outside town is the tomb of Amir Hamad, commander of the sultan of Zanzibar’s forces, who was killed here in 1844 while campaigning against Siyu and Pate.
Sleeping and Eating in Faza
The two guest house, Lamu House and Shela House, are essential family residences, but they can provide meals and a bedroom if you need somewhere to stay. The price is negotiable (expect to pay around Kshs 200 per person) and families are very friendly.
A simple restaurant in the of town offers bean stews, tea and mandazi (a semi-sweet flat donut) for just a fistful of shillings, and is a popular meeting place for the local men folk.
Robert is a tour expert in East Africa Kenya travel. He is a director of a Kenya tour operator company and degreed in tourism management. For more Blah on Kenya tourism see: http://www.landmarksafaris.com/planner/?refferer=ezinearticles