Most families at some point decide to introduce a pet or animal to their family home at some point in their lives. Although cats, dogs, rabbits, gerbils, fish and other small animals are the most common family pet it is becoming less unusual for families to look at bringing home exotic pets.

Exotic pets may seem more exciting and different however unless your are fully prepared and understand enough about the exotic pets you choose bringing one home could end in disaster.

Generally speaking, the more exotic the pet the more education you will need and it will probably require more expensive housing and food. When you are looking for exotic pets do your research before you shop, you may find you purchase an animal on impulse that you know little about and does not fit your family surroundings.

It is extremely important to do plenty of research on exotic pets before you decide what sort you want. You can find plenty of information on the internet simply type in the animal you are look for and read as much as you can to see if this animal suits you. You can also visit your local library and borrow books on exotic pets.

It may be helpful to visit a few pet shops to seek advise about exotic pets, make sure you are aware of all the special requirements they need.

Things To Ask

What sort of housing do they require, including the size and shape?
What sort of food do they eat and how often should they be fed?
Are they prone to any type of diseases or problems you should look out for?
Do they require any special equipment such as a UV light or heat mat?
How long is their life expectancy?
Do they need any type of vaccinations?
Do you need any sort of licence to own this type of animal?

If you have children it may be worth finding out how much your exotic pet likes to be interacted with. If you have chosen an animal that does not like to be handled will your family be happy with a pet that can only be looked at and not touched?

If you have other pets already you will need to know if the new addition will upset your existing animals and how they will get along. You may need to set up alternative measures if they need to be kept well away from each other.

Buying exotic pets is not as easy as it seems but if you are fully aware of everything that it needs and have prepared a loving home with the correct facilities there is no reason why you should not enjoy having one.

Allen Jesson writes for several sites that specialize in Pets, training for dogs and salt water and fresh water aquariums

The Bearded Dragon lizard is capable of living a healthy and active life in captivity. They do well when they are able to interact with both their owner and other bearded dragons. Here are some interesting facts that will aid in healthy and happy bearded dragon care.

The bearded dragon lizard originated in Australia. There are six to seven species of Australian dragons. The most predominant species in the Pogona vitticeps, also known as Amphibolurus vitticeps. Virtually all bearded dragons that have been captively bred have come to the United States from Germany. There have not been any legally exported bearded dragons come from Australia.

The bearded dragon lizard will breed very well in captivity. With a proper egg nesting area and incubation, the female bearded dragon will produce multiple clutches of eggs per year. These captive bearded dragons tend to be healthier than the wild-caught bearded dragon lizards and are often free of pesticides.

Birth defects in captive bearded dragons are rare and most populations survive quite well. Bearded dragon breeding has also produced numerous different colours of bearded dragons, although they are still of the same species.

An early sign of inbreeding causing problems in captively bred bearded dragons is that the bearded dragon will not grow to its full adult size. If you intend to breed your bearded dragons, you should ask your breeder what lines your bearded dragon lizards come from so that you may avoid those lines. Inbreeding also occurs when bearded dragons are sold to pet stores. People buy these dragons not realizing that they are related and then breed them.

Bearded dragons are like any other reptile and they may carry Salmonella. This is a bacterium that causes food poisoning and can sometimes be lethal. This is especially true for children that have an immuno-compromised condition. Careful handling of the bearded dragon lizard will ensure that you remain healthy along with your bearded dragon pet.

Bearded dragons require regular vet checkups as well as. Check with local veterinarians to see if they are familiar with reptiles. If your vet is not, ask him if he can refer to you one that is. You may also check with the Association of Reptile and Amphibian Vets for recommend reptile veterinarians near you.

Bearded dragons will go through a molting process like other reptiles. The bearded dragon lizard adult may exhibit signs of depression during this phase. They will enjoy a warm bath to help remove their shedding skin.

A warm bath is also another way to make your bearded dragon eliminate before handling him or her. There is nothing worse than having a bearded dragon eliminate in your lap. Before handling, place the bearded dragon in warm water. The warm water will make it eliminate and you will feel safer with your bearded dragon in your lap.

Bearded dragons should have a wide variety of choices in their diet. The bearded dragon should not, however, be fed meat such as beef or chicken. Meat contains too much protein and the bearded dragon will suffer from kidney problems or failures.

Avoid feeding crickets that are too large. Crickets should be no larger than the distance between the eyes of your bearded dragon. Baby bearded dragons should be fed one quarter inch crickets and juvenile bearded dragons may be fed half inch crickets. These crickets are generally around two-weeks old. Babies will be eager to eat larger crickets but they are unable to digest these and may die from impactions.

Crickets can be tricky to manoeuvre from their box to a cricket holding tank. One method is to place the cricket box in a plastic bag. Open the box in the bag and shake the crickets out into the bottom of the bag. Remove the box and the place the bag in the tank. The crickets should slide easily out of the bag as there is nothing for them to grip onto. This is also a good way to feed crickets to your bearded dragons.

Bearded dragons will change their feeding patterns with age. A young bearded dragon will be ready to eat on a moments notice while the adult bearded dragon may eat one day but not the next. This is especially true during the winter months.

The bearded dragon will be tempted to munch on your houseplants. There are a few houseplants that are okay for the bearded dragon to eat. Plants such as ficus, geraniums, hibiscus, petunias, pothos and violets. There are some houseplants that are treated with systemic pesticides, this means that the plant has taken the pesticide into its system and it will have to grow out to remove the pesticide. This will generally take six to twelve weeks.

These bearded dragon facts should aid you in the care of your bearded dragon. The bearded dragon will live a healthy and long life if it receives proper care and nutrition.

The author being a bearded dragon enthusiast himself has successfully
bred these very interesting lizards.For more information from buying a bearded dragon to breeding them come to http://www.worldofbeardeddragons.com/salebdcare.html
and receive a free e-course.

Bearded dragons are native to Australia, and like the vastness that Australia has to offer, there is also a large number of different species, and variations of bearded dragons over the large continent.

All species of bearded dragons are popular because of their quiet nature, ease of handling, and their small size to name just a few. Unlike many reptiles, bearded dragons require a much smaller space to live comfortably in, and are easily handled by adults, and children. There are eight different species of bearded dragons noted in Australia, and the following 6 are the most commonly known as pets.

The Western Bearded Dragon

The western bearded dragon is mainly found in the southwest coast, and inland areas of Western Australia. It lives mainly in woodland areas, as well as in coastal dunes, and in the desert as well.

The Inland Bearded Dragon

The inland bearded dragon is the largest of all the species, and grows to around 20cm in size. This species is found in every state, and territory of Australia except for Western Australia. The inland bearded dragon is the most popular breed of reptilian pet.

The Mitchells Bearded Dragon

The Mitchells bearded dragon is found in the interior of the Northern Territory, and in the north of Western Australia in the Great Sandy Dessert. The Mitchells species is the smallest of the bearded dragon species, and grows to around 14cm. One of the easiest ways to tell a Mitchells bearded dragon apart from the other species is his large cone like head spikes, which are unlike any of the other bearded dragons.

The Dwarf Bearded Dragon

The dwarf-bearded dragons, considered to be closely related to the Mitchell species, are mainly found in the Great Sandy Desert. The dwarf dragon is easily Identifiable because of his short legs, and short tail.

Lawsons Bearded Dragons
The Lawsons bearded dragons are the second most popular pet species. This species lives in most of Queensland, and some of the Northern Territory, but how much area the species actually occupies is still unknown.

The Nullabor Bearded Dragon

The Nullabor bearded dragon is a very rare species found only in a small area between the South Western, and South Australia. The Nullabor bearded dragon is easily recognizable by its markings, with large white markings along its back, and spines on its sides. The Nullabor bearded dragon is the least likely of all of the bearded dragons to be kept as pets, as they are hard to find in the wild, and have been known to be very difficult to breed in captivity.

It is possible that there are still undiscovered species of bearded dragons in Australia, as well as subspecies, as much of Australia’s reptilian wild life is still being discovered today.

For more information on caring for bearded dragons, try visiting Bearded Dragon Center, a popular website that provides tips, advice and resources on caring for beardies.

If you are considering getting an iguana for a pet there is a very large bit of literature and information that you should carefully study before deciding if an iguana is the right pet for you. Green iguana taming is but one of the relatively small issues in the way of owning and caring for iguanas, as they are a high maintenance pet to keep and can life for quite some time. There are also other considerations when deciding on an iguana and that includes green iguana taming as many iguanas display high levels of aggression in captivity. With this bit of information you will be able to form a better understanding of what the tasks are involved with having this pet and learning the fine points of green iguana taming.

Understanding Green Iguana Taming

The very first thing that is imperative for you to realize is that iguanas are a reptile and are very wild by nature. These creatures have only just begun in recent decades to be an in-home pet and often green iguana taming is very difficult for this reason. When you decide to own an iguana and bring it home it is going to show you aggression because it is scared and you may be inadvertently creating a worse situation by not understanding what the iguana perceives as a threat. These are necessary things to learn about your iguana because green iguana taming can be tricky and the iguana will never get over his aggression if you do not learn how to properly act and approach the iguana.

Green iguana taming can be a very long process because the reptile isn’t as easily warmed up to as other mammal like pets that you may have had in the past. The iguana will display high levels of aggression if you aren’t handling him properly and this seems to be the number one reason for iguana aggression is either due to the fact that the iguana is not handled properly or when green iguana taming, you don’t spend enough time with the pet on a daily basis. When you are researching how to properly perform green iguana taming be sure that you pay particular attention to how to approach your iguana also because trying to grab your iguana from the back will instinctively trigger defense mechanisms within the iguana and he will react negatively.

Another very important issue in green iguana taming is that you never grab your iguana by its tail because it will break right off in your hand. An iguana doesn’t have many defense mechanisms and the tail breaking off, is one of the defenses they have to protect themselves from predators in the wild.

If you want to learn more about Iguana diet please visit our site which is free to the public. You’ll find the best tips on everything to do with Iguana

To breed bearded dragons, you must create their natural seasons to bring the females into heat. This is called pre-condition. Before starting pre-condition, you should make sure that both your male, and female bearded dragons are well, healthy, and mature enough to be bred.

Pre-conditioning Steps

The first step is called the photoperiod, and is intended to simulate the winter season. Your UVB light will need a timer on it, and you should be set for 10 hours of light, and 14 hours of darkness, reduce the heat in the enclosure slightly. Ideally, the basking spot should be a maximum of 78 degrees, while the rest of the enclosure should be kept between 64 to 67 degrees. While you are simulating the photoperiod, you should decrease the food being given to the breeding pair. All together, the photoperiod should last around 6 weeks. After this period, you can change the lighting back to 12 hours of night, and 12 hours of light.

After the photoperiod has ended, you will need to provide more food than usual, and, where possible, offer fattier foods, such as wax worms. This is an important step that will help put weight, and condition onto your bearded dragons, getting them ready to breed.

After around 4 weeks after the photoperiod, you should make sure that the males and females are kept together. If there are more than one pair in the tank, you may notice that the males will become aggressive toward each other, and start to fight. The females will show obvious signs of submissiveness such as waving their arms, and bobbing their heads slowly. Once the female becomes fertile, she will begin looking for a place to lay her eggs. This is usually a soft, sandy place. Make sure that you provide such an area for her, by placing a mixture of play sand, and garden soil. The females are easily identifiable when they are pregnant, as they will appear much heavier than previously.

The Eggs, And Incubation

Once your female bearded dragon has laid her eggs, make note of the spot they have been placed. Then after she has finished, dig the eggs up with a spoon. It is vital that you are careful not to rotate the eggs when shifting them. It is possible to make your own incubator, although it is often easier, and the success rates are much higher with a bought incubator. The temperature must be kept at 85 degrees at all times, and must never go below 83 degrees. Eggs will need to be kept moist; you can do this by placing a small container of water at the bottom of the incubator, and misting the eggs with a fine spray regularly.

Hatching, And Caring For New Born Lizards

The eggs will usually hatch after 24 hours. Sometimes this may take a little longer. Just before the hatchlings emerge, you will notice that the eggs will begin to collapse. Once the hatchlings have emerged from their shells, it is time to place them in a rearing tank. The hatchlings will be very hungry, and need to be fed often to stop them from chewing at tails and toes, which do not grow back. Hatchlings must be fed very small wax worms, and crickets. Make sure that you don’t feed them food that is too large, or you may cause them damage. Hatchlings need to be fed 3 times a day until they are 4 months old. After this, you can reduce their meal times to once per day. Offer the hatchlings foods such as greens, and flowers as well as worms, and crickets.

For more information on bearded dragon breeding, try visiting http://www.beardeddragoncenter.com, a popular website that provides tips, advice and resources on caring for bearded dragons.

The bearded dragon is undoubtedly one of the most interesting pets one can own. Even if you don’t like lizards, the bearded dragon’s playful disposition and unique characteristics might just win you over. If you are already a proud owner of a bearded dragon (or “beardie” for short), or are thinking about purchasing one, then please read on for some crucial info on how to care for these unique lizards.

The most significant element of bearded dragon care is to have the right type of environment ready and assembled for your new found friend once he arrives in his new home. First, make sure that the cage is large enough. If you’re buying a baby bearded dragon, then he is definitely going to grow. So, make sure that you’ve allowed plenty of room for your bearded dragon to develop properly. Ideally, you want
a tank that is a minimum of forty gallons, but a 50 gallon tank is even better.

You’ll need to think about what kind of substrate you want to put into the tank as well. Substrate is a hotly debated subject and there are many different options. If you are going to have a young lizard, it’s highly recommended that you avoid any loose substrate, like sand. Paper towels, newspapers, or indoor/outdoor carpet are better choices. As your pets grow and get older, the risk of digestion of loose substrate decreases and washed play sand can be used. This type of substrate make it easier to scoop out feces
from the cage. Any bark, corncobs, or nut shells should always be avoided as they can cause severe problems if accidentally swallowed.

Furnishing your pet’s home is very important as well. Beardies prefer both shade and light, so it’s important to give them both options. They also are a sub-arboreal animal, so they like to perch off the ground. So, a silk plant or greenery from your local pet store for lizards will make a great addition to the tank.

Artificial rocks and branches make great additions to a bearded dragon habitat, as do reptile boxes which are made especially for bearded dragons and similarly sized reptilian pets. Water should be provided in a shallow dish. The tank can occasionally be misted, but not so much that it causes the environment to cool or become humid in any way.

The bearded dragon is cold blooded, so it’s important to have an adequate heat source for “basking.” There are lamps especially designed for reptiles, which you can find at the pet store. The proper

lighting for a bearded dragon habitat would be a low watt bulb with a mirror reflector on it. For optimum health, make sure your bearded dragon has a properly balanced diet of leafy greens, fresh vegetables, meal worms, and gut worms. Crickets and pinky mice are also good choices as food.

Bearded dragons are truly magnificent creatures, but they require very specific care. They aren’t necessarily high maintenance; however, like most reptiles there are certain things they need, and more importantly lots of things they cannot have. Hopefully, the above guidelines give you a good idea of what is involved in owning and caring for a beardie.

For more information on bearded dragon care, try visiting http://www.beardeddragoncenter.com, a popular website that provides tips, advice and resources on caring for bearded dragons.

There is relatively little known about the mysterious spiny tailed iguana and only a handful of subspecies. They are generally located in the Yucatan Peninsula through to Panama however their presence is largely located in Mexico. The spiny tailed iguana that thrives on the Atlantic coast there can typically grow up to 24-34 inches in length and are often mistaken for an alligator when they are spotted in Florida. They love to lay and soak up the sun and are often found around heat retaining objects such as stones and brick walls.

Spiny Tailed Iguana Traits

The most noticeable difference between the spiny tailed iguana and its close relative the green iguana is that the spiny tailed iguanas are very aggressive and don’t do well in captivity. They rarely ever become tame and continue to act aggressive towards the owners and other people as well. It is hostile and angry in a way and is best left to thrive in its natural environment as this just doesn’t make a good pet as the owner is always feeling like an inferior pet owner and the spiny tailed iguana is in distress because of its captivity.

The spiny tailed iguana has a few distinct traits such as the tail being ringed with very specialized spiny scales that run the length of the tail. Most of the iguana relatives have a dorsal crest that are very short generally however the spiny tailed iguana has a very long dorsal crest.

Captivity

If you already own a spiny tailed iguana and you have to house it, there are a few considerations to know before setting up its home. In general the spiny tailed iguana prefers a woody habitat and it is imperative to remember that the spiny tailed iguana thrives on digging and you should provide him with the material to suit it. Pine and aspen shaving and even some bark litters that you can buy for reptiles are not suitable for the spiny tailed iguana so be sure to steer clear of those. Alfalfa is a wonderful product to use to provide your iguana with digging material. Always make certain that your spiny tailed iguana has a fresh bowl of water at all times and it is sometimes suggested for this specific type of iguana that you allow ice cubes to melt over an enclosure into the water bowl.

If you want to learn more about Green Iguana please visit our site which is free to the public. You’ll find the best tips on everything to do with Iguana Care

When properly fed and with appropriate UV light, the bearded dragon is a robust and healthy creature, typically living 8-12 years, occasionally even 15. However, like many reptiles, they will try to hide illness or injury. The first danger to deal with is substrate. Impaction is an issue where some indigestible substance is trapped in the intestines and prevents proper flow through the digestive system. The best substrate is a matter of some controversy, but all will agree that the following are bad. Corncob can cause impaction and grow fungus and bacteria. Walnut shell is sharp and also can cause impaction. Calcisand and Vita-Sand taste good to bearded dragons, especially those needing more calcium, but cannot be digested and leads to impaction. Repti Bark, wood shavings and Original Lizard Litter can lead to impaction. There are brands that claim to be biodegradable and safe to consume, but these should be viewed with suspicion. Bearded Dragons have very short intestinal tracts, and thus have a great deal of trouble metabolizing their food. Solid surfaces are often best, and easiest to clean. Do not use heated rocks to keep the enclosure warm, as dragons have trouble detecting heat under their bodies, leading to burns.

When suffering from ingestion, they will often straighten and extend their hind legs and act as if paralyzed. This is not the same as basking, if the lizard can walk, it is just acting normally. Increasing the heat or soaking in hot water might induce a bowel movement, but it is unlikely to save the creature. The best treatment is to limit the size of the food and avoid dangerous substrates.

The next step is proper feeding. Insects fed to bearded dragons should be gut loaded or well-fed before feeding them to the lizards. Mealworms are a poor choice for dragon feed, and only the white, freshly molted larvae are appropriate. At least one meal every two days should include a calcium supplement, sprayed or dusted on the food. Some recommend a multivitamin weekly, but excess vitamin A can be fatal, so this should not be overdone. You want the proper amount of nutrients, not as much as possible.

Vegetables should be sprayed with water before feeding to supply moisture, and the animals should be misted on their faces periodically: Hatchlings twice a day, adults several times a week. If they lick all of the water off, reapply until they stop. Some can learn to use a shallow pan, but it will need cleaning daily and immediately if defecated on.

The animals will need sunlight, a UV light or diet supplementation to provide D3. Sunlight through a window will not work. If bulbs are used, keep them very close to the enclosure, within inches, and replace them twice a year even if they do not burn out.

Do not house dragons with other reptiles, and all new reptiles should be quarantined. Wash your hands before and after handling each reptile, and between handling reptiles kept in different enclosures. Keeping the enclosure clean is also important to your pet’s health.

Remember, you should always consult a veterinarian before treating an animal, and many issues are simply not within the normal owner’s ability to handle.

Coccidiosis is an infection commonly and incorrectly spoken of as a worm infestation. Coccidia are single cell organisms that live in the intestinal walls and can cause diarrhea. Most dragons are normally infected, but only when the lizards are weak does this become a danger. Smelly or loose bowels instead of hard pellets are typical symptoms. Treatment normally involves a sulfa type antibiotic. Quarantine the animal and ensure it is well hydrated. Do not allow it to refuse food or water. A typical method is to use a syringe or dropper to feed the animal, but another method is to drip food or water onto the animal’s nose. It will lick the substance off of the “dirty” nose, consuming it. Many vets recommend a pre-emptive de-worming once or twice a year, much as you would do with a dog. However, others are coming to believe that this can harm the health of the dragon and treatment should only take place when symptoms are detected. This may be a contributing factor to “yellow fungus.”

What is called the “yellow fungus” is believed to be more than one type of infection. The current belief is that many of the infected animals were treated with Albon, a common antibiotic. This is believed to have killed good bacteria in the digestive tract, allowing yeast and fungus growth to survive in the feces, which then gets on the skin of the lizard. Whatever the cause, it is infectious and lethal. It is recommended that a priobiotic treatment follow any antibiotic regimen. Some known cases were in animals never treated with antibiotics but kept on natural soil. The treatment regimen currently believed to be the best treatment is topical Nolvosan, keep it away from the eyes, then a rinsing followed by a treatment with lamisil. This should cover the infected area and surrounding areas, with another lamisil treatment in each 24-hour period. Acidophiliz+ is a well-regarded priobiotic, though others exist. Oral treatments must be supervised by the veterinarian and during the treatment period, do not feed the lizard fruits. Treatment should be extended two weeks after the last symptoms are seen. Use a solid substrate during treatment and clean it daily. A complicating factor is that it takes more than ten days for the infection to be cultured, and this often delays treatment until it is too late.

We know little about adenovirus. Quarantine any reptile suspected of infection as this can kill an entire collection. Unfortunately, the only sure way to determine if the creature has an adenovirus is autopsy. Most infected dragons had a history of lethargy, poor appetites and diarrhea. They are more likely young than old. The symptoms are frustratingly vague. Some infected reptiles recover, others die. The mechanism the virus uses to reach the host is unknown, and treatments have not yet been developed.

Bearded Dragons can be infested with mites. Mites are extremely difficult to remove and require a two-pronged attack. The animal and habitat must be treated. The animal should be given a dilute betadine bath. Allow the lizard to drink its fill before adding the betadine. If the animal defecates, drain the tub, clean it and repeat. The area around the eyes and nose should be treated with mineral oil after the bath. Dispose of all substrate, bagging it for removal, and scrape the corners and edges of the enclosure to remove all mites, eggs and mite feces. Wipe or spray the enclosure with soapy water, and remove the soap. Then use a 1/30 mixture of bleach for 10 minutes. Bake wooden furnishings for 2-3 hours at 250 degrees, longer for thicker pieces. Boil rocks for a half hour. Anything too large for these treatments should be treated with the bleach solution for 8 hours. Wipe down or clean anything else using these treatments as is appropriate to the substance. Use No-Pest strips or cat flea collars in the enclosures and seal the tank or enclosure as close to air tight as is possible. Leave this at least three hours. Bag and remove all cleaning materials for disposal, and let the enclosure sit for at least 8 hours before returning the dragons.

Egg binding is a potentially lethal problem. This most often occurs with a first clutch with infertile eggs. Discuss this with your veterinarian, as there are several possible causes. To prevent this, the best plan is to make sure the female is old enough, big enough and healthy enough to breed and has been fed the best possible diet with any needed supplementation. Protect the animal from stress and ensure a proper egg laying area is available.

Bearded Dragons are vulnerable to respiratory problems. This can include clogged nostrils due to mucus, raspy breathing through the mouth but not venting due to heat. The usual causes are excess humidity and cold. Contact your vet for treatment.

Too little vitamin D3 and Calcium can lead to Metabolic Bone Disease. The symptoms include shaking, twitching, or stiffness of limbs (especially rear legs), separation of the mouth, and difficulty chewing food. If caught early, sunlight and supplements can handle the situation.

Note that it is also possible to hurt your dragons with over supplementation, as some nutrients are dangerous if the supply is too large for the body to handle. Vitamin A toxicity usually produces swelling of the throat and eyes, followed by bloating of the body and lethargy.

Hibernation occurs naturally. In December to February, begin to reduce the length of the day by controlling the lighted enclosure. Gradually reduce the lighted period to 8-10 hours, and decrease the temperature to about 75-85 degrees in the day and 60 degrees at night. Provide material to dig a nest. Make sure the dragon is healthy and has no undigested food. If the dragon is up during the hibernation period, it is safe to provide small amounts of food. After about two months, begin increasing the temperature and light period back to normal.

For more information on bearded dragon diseases, try visiting http://www.beardeddragoncenter.com, a popular website that provides tips, advice and resources on caring for bearded dragons.

Reptiles are fast becoming the most popular pets around, and in the number one spot in the popularity stakes are the bearded dragons. If you don’t know a lot about these reptiles, you may be excused for wondering what all of the fuss is about.

Bearded dragons make great pets for a number of reasons; the most obvious is because they are so cute. To start off with, they are one of the smallest reptiles available, so they can easily be comfortably housed in an enclosure that doesn’t use up the whole of your home. Like all reptiles, they will require some special equipment to simulate their habitat, such as lights, and heating pads.

When you see a bearded dragon, your first impulse will be to want to buy him right on the spot. The bearded dragon wins many hearts because of his stunning looks. There are a number of different bearded dragon colorings available including red, orange, lemon, and white. They have exquisite markings from head to toe, and have prickly looking spikes around their throats, which gives the impression of them having a beard.

Not only does the bearded dragon look good, he is also one of the tamest, friendliest reptiles around. Many bearded dragons that are bred in captivity need no taming down, and can be handled immediately. They are very comfortable with their human companions, and will often hold onto their owner’s hands to avoid being put back in their enclosures. By nature, the bearded dragon is very friendly and inquisitive, which makes for an interesting interaction between pet and owner, as well as ensuring the survival of the bearded dragon after purchase, as he will happily fit right in without a lot of fuss.

The bearded dragon is an ideal pet for those who have children, and as long as younger children understand that the bearded dragon is very fragile, and can be hurt easily, the bearded dragons are safe to be handled by children, and won’t bite, or scratch. They will quite happily lie on their owner’s hands, and show no signs of discomfort, or distress while being handled.

Bearded dragons are easy to care for, as long as you know the equipment that is needed to simulate their environment, and will breed easily in the right conditions. Reptile owners will all agree that if you are new to reptile ownership, the bearded dragon is the best reptile to start off with because of his friendly disposition, hardiness and gentle nature.

If you are new to reptile ownership, and want to get a bearded dragon, make sure that you have all of the necessary equipment and food ready for your bearded dragon before bringing him home. Make sure to ask your supplier, or local pet store what the dragon has been fed previously, and make sure that you simulate his environment to resemble his natural habitat. By doing this, you will ensure the long, healthy, happy life of your reptile companion for many years to come.

For more fun facts about bearded dragons, try visiting http://www.beardeddragoncenter.com, a popular website that provides expert tips, advice and resources on caring for bearded dragons.

The giant green iguana is likely the best pet of the entire iguana family because it is the easiest to tame and does not show aggression in captivity as strongly as many of its relatives display. The giant green iguanas are generally acquired from a hot and tropical location and require very precise living conditions while in captivity or they can die a very horrible death. In order to house your reptile properly it is essential to understand and be able to provide the housing conditions in which it requires to sustain a good quality life.

Housing Conditions

The giant green iguana is a wonderful pet to own however there are some considerations to take into account before deciding if you can properly house one or not. It is no surprise that the giant green iguana gets it name because it tends to grow to quite large sizes and in fact can grow to weigh more than 20 pounds and can grow in length up to six feet long! It is also necessary to consider when deciding on a giant green iguana that the life span of these reptiles are typically anywhere from ten to fifteen years. That is a very long commitment to take on when deciding on a giant reptile for your house pet. It is one of the most serious problems with giant green iguanas because a lot of potential owners think that they are very cute when they are small but they grow to be very large and the owners decide they can’t house the iguana that it has grown to become.

It is also imperative to know when deciding if a giant green iguana is the pet for you that it is a particularly good pet for children to be around for a variety of reasons. The first and probably most important that most potential owners overlook is that iguanas tend to carry salmonella on their skin. People that handle these creatures should be diligent in hand washing to avoid being sickened by the salmonella and children are not very disciplined in doing these things and as a result tend to fall ill to salmonella poisoning.

The giant green iguana holds yet another reason that children are not a good owner of these reptiles is because children have a way of scaring the iguanas by jumpy moves and not speaking softly as they tend to get excited easily as do the giant green iguanas and that won’t make for a good situation and the iguana will get very aggressive and mean with the children.

If you want to learn more about Marine Iguana please visit our site which is free to the public. You’ll find the best tips on everything to do with Iguana