Watching fish swimming freely in a glass aquarium can be extremely therapeutic and have a calming effect. A glass aquarium is a home that you fish will probably spend their whole lives in so it is important to find the correct one.

Introducing fish into your home can benefit all the family however you need to be aware of what your fish needs with regard to food, lighting, surroundings and size of their tank. Tropical fish can be expensive so it is wise to research which fish can mix with other fish as some may kill the other.

If you have decided to purchase a glass aquarium then you could not have chosen a better time, the designs in glass aquariums are far more attractive and pleasing to the eye than in recent years and there is a much larger choice of sizes and shapes available.

Before you obtain a glass aquarium it is important to know how many fish you expect to keep as this will determine the size of the aquarium you will need. Many owners have overstocked their tanks resulting in a disastrous outcome.

Although most people use the one inch of fish per gallon of water ratio this can leave lots of room for error. Not all fish are the same size and same may grow considerably more than others making your glass aquarium unsuitable. Most fish owner will not know how old the fish are when they buy them so will not know how much more they will grow so it is important to research the type of fish you are considering to determine its true adult size.

If you are unsure where to find adequate information on your glass aquarium and fish you want to keep try visiting your local library or simply searching the internet for advice is always a good start. You could also try asking your local pet shop owner for their tips and ideas too.

Once you have done your research and have purchased your glass aquarium do not fully stock the tank in one go, it is advised that only 25% of the total volume of fish should be added at the same time. It takes time for colonies of bacteria to build up and adjust to the bio-load and be ready to eliminate fish wastes which are toxic.

Once you have set up your aquarium with adequate lighting, heating, filtration and have decorated it accordingly you can now add your fish here is how

Turn the light of in the aquarium as this will reduce stress to the fish
Place the fish in a sealed bag with water
Place the bag into the tank so that it floats on the water
Allow the bag to float on the water for 20 minutes
Open the bag containing the fish and add approximately one cup of the fish tank water
Close the bag and let it float on the water for another 10 minutes
Untie the bag and use a net to transfer the fish into the glass aquarium
Never add the water from the bag to the tank as this may contain toxins
Allow the fish to adjust for a few hours before turning the light of the aquarium back on

Now it is time to sit back enjoy your fish!

Allen Jesson writes for several sites including Pets, the aquarium site and salt water and fresh water aquariums

Saltwater aquariums are certainly more difficult to maintain than fresh water aquariums. The ecology of saltwater aquariums is different and needs careful as well as knowledgeable handling.

Saltwater aquariums can house a wide range of fishes and mammals in comparison to fresh water aquariums. In a salt water aquarium it is possible for you to keep some of the flamboyantly colored reef fishes. A saltwater aquarium can also house live coral, anemones, crustaceans or jellyfish. Some advanced aquarists even keep octopuses and squids. This variety of sea life gives the aquarium an exotic feel. Perhaps this is the reason why saltwater aquariums are so popular.

Starting a Saltwater Aquarium

Before starting a saltwater aquarium it would be a good idea if you researched the ecosystem of saltwater fishes, their habitat, food, water temperature etc. A saltwater aquarium can be highly gratifying and the extra time used to research the exact requirements for a saltwater tank is worth its weight in gold.

To start a saltwater aquarium you will require a Fish tank, Filtration System, Substrates, Heater or Thermometer, power head, protein skimmer, water pump, and air pump.

The Basic Types

There are three basic forms of saltwater aquariums: Fish Only, Fish with Live Rock and Reef System.

Fish only – This is a good choice for beginners. This type of tank is for keeping fish only as the name suggests and is the least expensive type.

Fish with Live Rock- This is basically the same as fish only, but has live rocks. It is called “live rock” because of the creatures and organisms living on the inside and on the surface of the rock. Buying good rock, can be expensive though.

Reef System- Reef tanks are usually set up by very experienced hobbyists because these tanks require excellent water conditions, extremely high lighting levels, water supplements, reverse osmosis and deionized water, and excellent filtration. In short it costs the earth and then some.

Saltwater Aquarium Do’s & Don’t’s

You should ideally choose an aquarium that is 55 gallons (200 liters) or larger. It will be harder to maintain suitable water quality and balance in a smaller tank.

After deciding on size you must decide on the material of the aquarium. There are 2 choices glass and acrylic. Both these materials are commonly used for saltwater aquariums and have their pros and cons.

Location is a very important aspect of saltwater aquariums. Too much sunlight causes algae problems and too little is equally harmful. The temperature should be as constant as possible.

Never place anything in the aquarium that is not saltwater proof. Make sure that decorations are saltwater proof or they may poison your aquarium.

Filtration is an important part of any aquarium, salt or otherwise. There are three basic types of filterations- mechanical filtration, chemical filtration and biological filtration.

Cleaning your aquarium with detergent or soap will pollute the water and destroy the fragile ecosystem of your saltwater aquarium. It’s best if you use bleach instead. Add one capful of pure bleach to 10 gallons of water and wipe the aquarium with, clean carefully with fresh water afterwards.

You should never use ordinary salt in your aquarium. Its best to buy aquarium salt from a fish store and mix it with water according to instruction.

A hydrometer is very crucial for the saltwater aquarium. It is of utmost importance for you to maintain a balance between the salt and water levels. Water keeps evaporating, whereas the salt level remains the same. Evaporated water should never be replaced by salt water. A hydrometer will make it possible for you to check the exact salinity of the water.

Popular Saltwater Fishes
Clown fish, Angelfish, Blue lined triggerfish, Comical blenny, Flame fish and Damsels are a few examples of popular saltwater fishes that can be kept in aquariums.

Rohan Mistry is the owner of a day spa in Mumbai. He earlier looked after accommodation reservation for spa break in Mauritius. Being a keen observer of upcoming trends in the spa industry, he is particularly upbeat about Shanti Ananda spa packages in Mauritius.

Question: What can be done about Blue- green algae blooms in aquariums?

Answer: We have a lot of Blue Green algae problems in the lakes here in Oregon (it is not even a true algae, rather modified bacteria; Cyanobacteria). I understand that the out breaks have differences from aquariums, but there are similarities too. I did research on this subject (including reading the local newspapers about treatment and control in our local lakes). Two points that were made several times are:

[1] Heat, high summer temperatures, and poor in flow and out flow of water seem to induce an outbreak. This also relates to the Redox Potential.
Fresh water and good Redox potential (-300 mV) seems to play a large role (from my own research and other research articles I have read). In lakes this bloom will usually conside with poor inflow and outflow of water. This also causes a change in trace element content as well as Redox.
This can then be applied to aquariums in that maintaining regular water changes, a GH over 100 ppm (for calcium and trace elements) as well as the correct Redox (UV Sterilization helps here too), will all work towards prevention and eradication of this problem.

[2] Nutrients, the amount of nitrogen based and phosphate nutrients need to be reduced.

As this relates to aquariums, I would increase circulation, clean and vacuum the bottom every other day, cover the aquarium from light for three days, reduce the temperature, consider UV Sterilization to kill free floating spores, and reduce the nutrient level.

CYANOBACTERIA BASICS;

Knowing more about this “algae” is important for eradication:

Cyanobacteria are from the phylum Cyanophyta of Bacteria that obtain their energy through photosynthesis. They are often still generally referred to as blue-green algae, although they are actually prokaryotes (organisms without a cell nucleus) like bacteria.
Prokaryotes usually unicellular, although some are capable of forming cell groups called colonies. Individual Blue-Green Algae that make up these colonies will usually act independent of one another. Colonies are formed by organisms that remain attached following cell division, often through the help of a secreted slimy layer that we often see as slimy green mat in our aquariums.
Cyanobacteria are the only known group of organisms that are able to reduce nitrogen and carbon in aerobic conditions. The water-oxidizing photosynthesis is accomplished by coupling the activity of photosystem (protein complexes involved in photosynthesis) PS II and I (Z-scheme; the light-dependent reaction, which converts solar energy into chemical energy). In anaerobic conditions, they are also able to use only PS I — cyclic photophosphorylation — with electron donors other than water (hydrogen sulfide, thiosulphate, or even molecular hydrogen) just like purple photosynthetic bacteria. Cyanobacteria also have the ability to reduce elemental sulfur by anaerobic respiration in the dark. A unique aspect of these organisms is that their photosynthetic electron transport shares the same compartment as the components of respiratory electron transport. It is the thylakoid membrane (the site of the light-dependent reactions of photosynthesis) hosts both respiratory and photosynthetic electron transport, while the plasma membrane contains only components of the respiratory chain.

TREATMENT (eradication)

With some of the above information in hand, one can now make more informed choices about how to eradicate Cyanobacteria.

*30% water change (or more) using a Gravel Vacuum (especially to remove nitrogenous waste producing mulm than often accumulates under rocks or UGF plates). This cuts off one source of nutrition. Removing hydrogen sulfate producing anaerobic bacteria in freshwater is important as well, so make sure and vacuum all the dead spots. Along this line of thought, removing sand and replacing with gravel has helped in aquariums I have monitored with BG algae

*Electrolytes and minor elements such as magnesium and calcium, Wonder Shells are useful here. VERY IMPORTANT.

*Add a UV Sterilizer (Very effective but not always cost effective for small aquariums, but is worth mentioning, not just for sterilization, but for Redox which plays a role in controlling bacterial BG algae.)

*Improve the Redox Potential, this is often missed, however this is an important part of the equation. For more, please read this article:
THE REDOX POTENTIAL IN AQUARIUMS (& PONDS); and how it relates to proper aquatic health

*Cut back on feeding and improve food quality (No TetraMin). Better choices: Ocean Nutrition, HBH, Spirulina 20 just to name a few. This again will cut back on nutrients.

*Increase circulation and dissolved oxygen. These Prokaryote Bacteria do not do as well in a well oxygenated/ circulated environment (remember my points about the lakes).

*Medication; Copper at a level of 15 to 20 ppm is effective in inhibiting effective photosynthesis. Erythromycin has shown to be effective here as well.

*Lighting; although this is often recommended for the eradication of Cynabacteria, this is often not effective and the BG algae bounces right back. The reason is as stated above that Cyanobacteria have the ability to reduce elemental sulfur by anaerobic respiration in the dark.

For my full and expanding article, please follow this link:
Blue Green Algae (Cyanobacteria) in Aquariums; what it is and how to control it.

By Carl Strohmeyer

Aquarium Information

If you have decided that you want to turn your small hobby into an aquarium world then building a 150 gallon fish tank is a great idea. You must first think about it carefully before undertaking a project of this size as this is perhaps one of the largest tanks that you can feasibly put in your home, and installing a 150 fish gallon tank in your house takes a lot of planning and a lot of patience.

What Species Of Fish Will Be Living In A Tank Of This Size?

You must consider that once you have your 150 fish gallon tank in your home, what type of animal life do you want swimming around in there. Do you want a saltwater reef or some freshwater fish greeting you during the day? Another possibility is having both land and water represented in the large tank, giving the illusion of the beach or a lakefront property. If you decide to have a saltwater environment for your 150 fish gallon tank, there are a few species that make wonderful additions and are easy to look after.

The following species are just a few that would make a lovely addition to any 150 fish gallon tank.

• The Purple Tang : known scientifically as Zebrasoma xanthurus
• Yellow Stripe Maroon Clownfish
• Sea Anemone: Entacmaea quadricolor

These fish would look wonderful in any 150 fish gallon tank. The Purple Tang is very bold and as it is a herbivore it is well equipped to handle just about any plant matter that the reef could throw at it. This fish thrives in tanks of 100 gallons or more, so it should feel right at home in your 150 fish gallon tank. Make sure though that all your fish ‘get on’ with the others, please watch putting it in the tank with other tangs – be they yellow, red, or purple – as these little guys can get quite territorial at times.

The stunning Clownfish has yellow stripes on its forehead, middle section and tail. They are very easy to take care of and would look and feel right at home in your 150 fish gallon tank.

If you decide to have a saltwater 150 fish gallon tank then the sea anemone gets on really well with the clownfish and would survive quite easily in an aquarium of this size. For further advice it is always best to visit a specialist pet store.

http://www.fishtankfun.com is an informative site relating to fish, fish tanks, aquariums,fish tank filter and pumps and all related material relating to fish.

Sitting around the garden, relaxing by the side of a beautiful pond, listening to the soothing sounds of bubbling, tumbling water whilst watching some amazing coloured Koi Carp swimming lazily around it’s edges is the dream of most avid koi keepers.

Nishikigoi are wonderful fish coming in a variety of colours and patterns unlike any other type of pond or coldwater fish. When swimming in clear, dark water (the best type) their shear size give them a regal, battleship type of appearance.

Creating a koi pond can be an expensive, time consuming experience, especially for the rookie pond keeper. It will also mean giving up a large section of your garden over to our fishy friends and their new home.

Good filtration and water quality are essential to the wellbeing of Koi Carp if they are to remain healthy all year round. Modern filtration units and pond equipment were not available ten to fifteen years ago, with improvements to pond filtration units meaning a saving in space along with a significant increase in quality and reliability. With continuing advancement, we believe that, the fascinating hobby of koi keeping will flourish and prosper for a very long time to come.

Koi Carp grow to a considerable size even in parts of the hemisphere where the growing season (summertime) is relatively short. Koi can grow to a size of around 20 inches in as little as three to four years. the end result being that not only do the fish look beautiful by virtue of it’s colour and shape, but also rather majestic in size. This type of rapid growth must be planned in advance of the installation of your Koi pond.

To minimize potential health risks from over stocking of the koi pond it is in our opinion that investment should be made by the Koi enthusiast in more sophisticated pond equipment, including a dedicated quarantine unit for medical supervision and treatment. it is vital to maintain a high quality environment at all times that can cope with increasing loads of new fish and the growth of existing koi stocks.

David ‘Goldie’ Edwards is managing director of Garden, Aquarium & Pond Supplies Ltd. based in the UK. His Pond Supplies website gives clients the opportunity to further enhance their Aquatic knowledge and fish keeping skills.

Puntius tetrazona
Max. size: 7.0 cm / 2.8 inches
pH range: 6.0 – 8.0
dH range: 5 - 19
Temperature range: 20 – 26°C / 68 – 79°F

The tiger barb has long been one of the most popular and most kept aquarium fish species and there are today a wide variety of different color morphs available in the aquarium trade besides the common tiger barb. Such morphs include albino tiger barbs, green tiger barbs and golden tiger barbs.

The tiger barb originates in South-East Asia and are native to Indonesia and Malaysia. They live on the Malay Peninsula, on the island of Sumatra and on the island of Borneo. The tiger barb can however today be found in many waters around the world where it voluntarily or involuntarily have been introduced by man. Countries where it has been introduced includes Australia, Singapore, Suriname and Colombia.

Tiger barbs are suitable for beginner aquariums where they are best kept in large schools. Tiger barbs can often resort to fin nipping if they are kept in too small schools but this is seldom a problem if they are kept in large schools. It is however still recommended to avoid keeping tiger barbs with slow moving, long finned fish species. The average life span in a well kept aquarium is 6 years. Tiger barbs should preferably be kept in aquariums no smaller than 60 centimetres (24 inches) long. The aquarium should be decorated with hiding places among plants and plenty of room for swimming. Rocks and driftwood will also be appreciated.

Tiger barbs are very easy to care for as long as you keep the water parameters within the ranges given in the beginning of this article. Try to keep the water temperature in the upper part of the recommended range, ideally 23 – 26° C (74-79° F). They are omnivorous and will accept almost all food that is presented to them and they willingly accepts flake food. Try to vary the diet of your tiger barbs as much as possible even if it possible to keep and breed tiger barbs on nothing but flake food.

Tiger barbs are easy to breed and the largest problem is usually to prevent the parents from eating the eggs and fry. They often spawn in regular community aquariums but it is rare for any fry to survive in a community aquarium. Most often the eggs get eaten well before hatching. They are easy to sex as the female tiger barb is larger and have a much rounder belly. Males have distinctive red noses, and above the black part of their dorsal fins you can see a characteristic red line. The dorsal fin of the female is mainly black.

If you want to breed your tiger barbs it recommendable to setup a breeding aquarium with some kind of egg protection device in it that prevents the parents from eating the eggs. A layer of common glass marbles on the bottom of the tank will do well for this task. Fill the breeding aquarium with water from the main tank. Move a round female to the tank and a male to the breeding tank. They will likely spawn the next morning or at the very least the morning after if they are in spawning condition. If you fish hasn’t spawned in tree days a recommend trying another pair instead. The eggs are sticky, do not float in freshwater and are usually slightly above 1 millimetre (0.04 inches) in length. The number of eggs usually ranges from 300 to 500. The fry becomes free swimming after about 5 days and can be fed newly hatched brine shrimp. The fry grows relatively fast and usually reaches sexual maturity in about seven weeks at what point they are 2-3 centimetres (0.8-1.2 inches).

This is a short version of a more in depth tiger barbs and tiger barb breeding articles available at AC tropical fish where you also can read in depth article about a number of other barb fish species.

Studies have shown that people who own a tropical fish tank are calmer and suffer from less ill health than those who don’t. Dogs and cats are also known to have therapeutic benefits. Stroking a dog or cat has been proven to provide a calming effect on the brain. But the simple observation that watching fish makes people calmer and healthier is also backed up by studies. A freshwater or a tropical fish tank brings an increase in health and wellness and gazing at these kinds of aquariums is peaceful and relaxing.

Therapy For Your Kids

If you have children, you will know how much of a handful they can be but have you noticed the difference in how they behave when you take them to an aquarium center? Or even to a house or office where there is a tropical fish tank? They become transfixed upon the fish. It’s like a magnet pulls them in. I remember being a child and watching some pink coral in a tropical fish tank at a store, just hypnotized by its motion.

Watching A tropical fish tank is so calming studies have shown that children with adhd show a marked improvement almost immediately. Aquariums in the classroom are known not only to reduce anxiety levels in students but also to be a good tool to teach the kids the responsibilities of caring for a pet and some chemistry basics. Tropical fish tanks are also seen in hospital waiting rooms and especially in the child’s hospital wards to help aid their recovery.

And For Adults Too!

While adults may control themselves near a fish store more than a kid would, at the city aquarium or zoo, they are just as entranced as the children. Everyone feels wonder watching the biggest shark or the humblest goldfish paddling through a tropical fish tank.

They are known to reduce blood pressure and help people who are going through stressful situations. It is the fish that are the relaxing part. Tests have been carried out on subjects who just watch a colorful bubbling tank but without any fish and they did not have as promising results as those who watched a tropical fish tank which actually contained fish. Scientists in Japan are studying the possibility that watching delicate jellyfish in a tropical fish tank may be even more therapeutic.

Some people have told how gazing at a tropical fish tank helped a loved one deal with disease. Another great place to have a tropical fish tank is in the dining room, as studies show you are more able to relax and focus on completing a whole meal in the presence of an aquarium. This may be why several top restaurants have had large tropical fish tanks installed.

http://www.fishtankfun.com is an informative site relating to fish, tropical fish tanks,aquariums, fish tank stands and all related products to help you in keeping healthy fish.

AQUARIUM WATER CONDITIONERS; their ingredients (where available), what chemical functions they perform and uses based on my opinions of each based on using these products in a professional capacity (27 years of aquarium maintenance and research)

STRESS COAT;
Stress Coat contains a special non-toxic polymer that is attracted to the skin of the fish forming a synthetic slime coat envelope. Stress Coat also contains sodium thiosulfate electrolytes such as sodium and sulfides which helps reduce loss of electrolytes through the skin, gills, and damaged tissue. The Aloe Vera in STRESS COAT reduces inflammation of damaged fish tissue.
The effectiveness of Stress Coat with Aloe Vera has been proven by independent studies conducted at the University of Georgia, School of Veterinary Medicine. Researchers found that Stress Coat helped heal wounds and speed tissue re-growth. Dr John Gratzek summarizes the results: “Personally, I am satisfied with the results since my initial thoughts were skeptical to say the least. These definite statements can be made without equivocation: Stress Coat in no way harms aquarium fish, alters pH, or affects the biological filter. No ammonia or nitrite was detected in the test aquariums. The results indicated that the Stress Coat formula reduced the wound size compared to untreated fish tissue.” Aloe Vera is high in mucopolysaccharides, an essential component of many tissues and believed to help in the healing process.

Use;
An effective water conditioner for the removal of chlorine, breaking of the chlorine/ ammonia bond (in water containing chloramines) and adding an aloe slime coat.
This is my favorite slime coat treatment for direct application to a fish that is wounded from transport or other reasons. I however have found it less effective for overall slime coat generation after a water change.
Ingredients are safe for both fresh and saltwater.

AMMO-LOCK;
Ammo-lock contains sodium thiosulfate pentahydrate. Ammo-lock works in both fresh and saltwater, to detoxify ammonia and remove chlorine and chloramines. Locks up ammonia in a non-toxic form (ammonium) until it can be broken down by the tank’s natural biological filter and/or used by plants.

Use:
For the removal of chorine and chloramines. This product is useful for the detoxification of ammonia, especially in new aquariums. I usually only use this product when the aquarium is new, ammonia (NH3) is high (please note, most ammonia test kits will still show ammonia present in the form of NH4 after using this product) or in areas where chloramines are used.
Ingredients are safe for both fresh and saltwater.

START RIGHT;
Start Right contains allantoin (5-Ureidohydantion; Glyoxldiureide 2, 5 - Dioxo - 4 imidzolidinyle – urea) which is used in humans for the treatment of : skin ulcers, wound, scalds, burns and sunburns, carbuncles, acne and skin eruptions, fissures and abrasions, impetigo, eczema, psoriasis. This is a naturally occurring chemical even found in earthworms.
Start Right is a multi-beneficial water conditioner that removes chlorine and chloramine, neutralizes heavy metals, aids in cell regeneration and in the additional production of the fish’s natural slime coat, adds beneficial. It also contains chlorides of sodium and potassium, and polyvinylpyrrolidone.
which helps reduce loss of electrolytes through the skin, gills, and damaged tissue. It is a complete water conditioner that stimulates the natural secretion of slime to protect fish from the harmful effects of handling, shipping, fish fighting and other forms of stress. Removes chlorine and chloramine instantly, neutralizes heavy metals, adds beneficial electrolytes and guards against secondary infection.

Use:
For the removal of chlorine, breaking of the chlorine/ ammonia bond (in water containing chloramines), adding of electrolytes for stress, and the natural generation a slime coat.
This is probably my favorite basic overall water conditioner for established aquariums (I use this the most), Start Right will not remove ammonia or interfere with plant growth by removing nitrogenous compounds needed by plants. This product is also very economical.
Ingredients are safe for both fresh and saltwater.

SEACHEM PRIME;
Prime contains complexed hydrosulfite salts which removes chlorine, chloramine and ammonia. Prime also converts ammonia into a safe, non-toxic form (ammonium) that is readily removed by the tank’s nitrifying bacteria. Prime may be used during tank cycling to alleviate ammonia/nitrite toxicity. Prime detoxifies nitrite and nitrate, allowing nitrifying and denitrifying bacteria to more efficiently remove them. It will also detoxify any heavy metals found in the tap water at typical concentration levels. The ingredients of Prime also promotes the production and regeneration of the natural slime coat and are non-acidic and will not impact pH.

Use:
For removal of chlorine, chloramines, and the de-toxifying of ammonia, nitrites and nitrates. This product adds electrolytes that aid in natural slime coat generation and proper osmotic function. This is my favorite conditioner to use in newer aquariums, aquariums with high ammonia or for use in areas where chloramines are in tap water. One reason I like this product is that is does what it claims!
Ingredients are safe for both fresh and saltwater.

NOVAQUA;
The formula of NovAqua is proprietary, so not all ingredients are available. It is assumed that Novaqua contains sodium thiosulfate (a common Redox Reducer) and Edetates. Novaqua also contains phosphates for buffering to stabilize water after water changes (often when water is added from the tap it immediately picks up O2 and CO2 and is unstable in pH, this aspect of Novaqua helps here). The phosphate buffer system of Novaqua produces a 5 mg/L of phosphates in the aquarium as compared to the 30 mg/L shown in labs tests to grow algae. NovAqua also contains electrolytes; cations (Positively charged atoms or molecules) and anions (negatively charged atoms or molecules) that are required by freshwater fishes. Freshwater fishes remove these ions from water via the gills. The need by fish for these ions is increased during times of stress.

Use:
The original conditioner that adds a slime coat, adds electrolytes buffers water, and removes chlorines. NovAqua is useful for use water changes where buffering is needed do to pH drops after water changes. The level of phosphates used for buffering are not usually a problem for most aquariums, however if you already have high phosphates or algae problems I would avoid this product. Otherwise this is an excellent product when one desires a conditioner that adds a slime coat and buffers a well.
Ingredients are safe for both fresh and saltwater.

AMQUEL;
The active ingredient in Amquel is hydroxymethanesulfonic acid, sodium and salt. Amquel converts ammonia to a non-toxic form (ammonium) until it can be broken down by the tank’s natural biological filter and/or used by plants. Amquel works by virtue of the hydroxymethane- end of the molecule reacts with ammonia to form a non-toxic, stable water-soluble substance which is acted upon by the bacteria in biological filtration.
This reaction effectively removes the toxic ammonia from solution. Even in water of low pH (under 7.0) the above reaction proceeds to completion. This is because even at pHs below 7.0 there is always some “free” ammonia (NH3) and the AmQuel will scavenge it from the water. This is why AmQuel works faster at higher pH’s and in saline waters.

Use:
One of the first products for chloramine and ammonia removal. It is very effective in binding the ammonia (NH3) where that it stays non toxic even when nitrifying bacteria are not fully active. Although safe for saltwater, I have seen this product lower pH (although use with Novaqua counters this), for this reason it is not my first choice in this type of conditioner (Prime is my favorite as stated earlier).
Ingredients are safe for both fresh and saltwater (when not over used).

AMQUEL +;
Since this is a new product, the ingredients are proprietary and not yet disclosed.
AmQuel+ (also known as AmQuel Plus) is a recent chemical invention that has the ability to make the “Nitrogen Cycle” (involving ammonium/ammonia/nitrites/nitrates) totally nontoxic in aquarium and pond keeping, without interfering with its process in any way, and without interfering with the beneficial bacteria that are involved with the cycle. Further, AmQuel+ detoxifies/removes all of the toxic nitrogen compounds that can appear in aquarium and pond water over time.

Use:
A new product without a lot of practical experience (including by me). The claims by Kordon sound very promising, and this may turn out to be an excellent product for new aquariums in particular, although use in established aquariums seems unnecessary.
Ingredients are safe for both fresh and saltwater.

NOVAQUA +;
Novaqua + is a new product and again has proprietary ingredients that the company will not totally divulge. NovAqua+ claims to provide, in a single product, everything necessary to handle all of the needs when treating tap water for aquatic life (except for handling nitrogen compound removal such as ammonia, nitrites, nitrates). For the removal of toxic nitrogen compounds, Kordon recommends the use of AmQuel+

Use:
Again a new product without a lot of practical experience (including by me). If this product lives up to claims such as aiding in osmotic function as well as chlorine removal and heavy metal removal, this may be a very useful product as well. Due to claims of iodine removal, I would not recommend use in marine reef tanks (as many soft corals need iodine)
Ingredients are safe for freshwater.

CONCLUSION;
This is an incomplete list that I will add to as time goes on and I will also update as new products and information becomes available (especially in relation to Kordons new Amquel + and NovAqua +)
Also it should be noted that most water conditioners of all types (basic, artificial slime coat replacer, and chloramine/ ammonia remover) have similar properties and ingredients and some of the outrageous claims I have read on the internet such as “Start Right is not safe for marine aquariums while Novaqua is” are without any scientific merit (if anything the phosphates in Novaqua can cause more problems than any ingredient in Start Right!

Please also note that some of the ingredients can expire with time especially when left in an unsealed container (sodium thiosulfate is a reducer and will be affected by air borne oxidizers). The time this will take will vary, although personally I would not use an open bottle after one year based on the degradation of sodium thiosulfate.

For my full article including pictures and product and manufacturer links, please visit this URL:

AQUARIUM WATER CONDITIONERS; their ingredients (where available), what chemical functions they perform and uses

By Carl Strohmeyer

http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/

When potential aquarists start looking into the possibility of starting their own salt water aquarium there is one thing which is often quite daunting - equipment.

There is a lot more equipment which is required in a salt water aquarium, especially a salt water reef aquarium.

Equipment requirements can be but not limited to :

* Heaters

* Water movement devices

* Lighting

* Protein skimmers

* Calcium reactors

* Filtration devices

* Auto top up devices

* Auto feeders

* Nitrate reducers

* Phosphate reducers

* Stirrers

* Reverse osmosis units

* Computer controllers

* And more…….

With all the information you need to know to start a successful salt water aquarium then only thing you realistically need to know about equipment is what they are for, what is a definitive requirement and what is not.

Of course all equipment is made by various manufacturers and this post cannot go into the detail as to which is the better manufacturer to use and why.

For the potential salt water aquarist who is not really that interested in technology and let’s face it not everyone is (except me!) and just wants a salt water aquarium in their home there is another way.

There are salt water aquarium packages which you can purchase. These salt water aquarium packages come in various shapes and sizes and combine everything you need in one handy take home package. The only thing which you will need with one of these packages is the water, salt, filtration and livestock itself. There are some salt water aquarium packages which even come with a reverse osmosis unit, some salt and man made filtration or natural filtration.

With these salt water aquarium packages you really do have everything you need. You simply purchase one, take it home (or have it delivered) set it up, add the salt water, go through the nitrogen cycle and then slowly stock it - easy eh!

The majority of these salt water aquarium packages keep the majority of the equipment either underneath the aquarium in the sump or in a specially designed rear panel which hides all the required equipment from view. The only trouble with the latter is that they do tend to remove a bit of the width of the tank - normally 3-4 inches. Personally if I was going to purchase a package like this I would opt for the sump one, but it really is up to personal choice.

Of course you do not need to go for a predetermined package deal you can approach your local fish shop and ask them to design you a salt water aquarium package. You will be surprised how many shops will accommodate this.

In closing if you are not interested in technology and purely want a salt water aquarium to look after and enjoy but do not want the hassle of purchasing all the required equipment separately then these salt water aquarium packages are certainly worth further investigation.

Peter Cunningham combined with his father have been keeping salt water aquarium’s for nearly 35 years. Their website Salt Water Aquarium provides a wealth of resources for learning how to start and maintain salt water aquariums.

Most filters fall into three categories, namely mechanical, chemical or bacteriological filtration base. The aquarium supply scene is so diversified and a multitude of products available that it becomes a little confusing to make a quick choice without studying the competitive data. You must carefully prepare your “brief” and specify all your requirements before deciding on the type of filtration to be used.

What & Why of Aquarium Filtration Units

Fish and organisms cause pollution in the form of waste and if not removed would cause toxin development and consequent illness of the fish. The aquarium filtration units consolidate this waste and purify the water that recycles back into the fish tank. The assembly of a filter relies on filtration media that serves the purpose of removing chemicals, particles, and bacteria. Commonly filters are available as packaged units with mechanical and bacteriological media. Chemical filtration can be added to this. Nitrogen residues in the form of ammonia causes distress to fish and the bacteriological filtration unit remove this component very successfully.

Short description of Aquarium Filtration Units

There are four basic types that you can install in case you are assembling your own aquarium. These are:
* Internal Power type
* External Power type
* Powered filters
* Internal box type filters

Let us compare the features of each filter assembly.
1. Internal Power driven filters are in two parts. The main cylinder contains a bio foam compound and is attached under the submersible pump that drives the filter. This is a mechanical filtration system and is most common in aquarium filter units integrated with fish tanks. The filter unit first mechanically filters the water, removing sludge and solid waste etc and then the bio-filter cleans the water of all biological impurities. It is also possible to have an option of chemical filtration, if that is desired or necessary. As this is the most common type of filter almost all manufacturers can supply a suitably sized filtration system to the aquarium owner.

2. External filter unit are also widely available and give superior duty in comparison with the internal aquarium filtration units. Since these are not integrated into the fish tank the capacity and duty may be of a higher quality and obviously cost compared to the previous internal type. The control is better and one can incorporate additional accessories that enhance the filtration of the water for your aquarium.

3. Air driven under gravel filters was earlier used by aquarium owners when the power driven versions were still in its nascent stage. This is a kind of biological filter where the water is purified and kept in constant motion through the gravel bed and the aerobic bacteria produced breaks down the waste into less toxic products, thereby rendering a pseudo-filtration action. The assembly is electrically driven or can be attached also to a power pump. Easily available and of a lower cost, the under gravel type of aquarium filtration units offer an easy solution to keeping your aquarium clean and healthy.

4. Finally, air box filters driven by internal air are compact and fit alongside the aquarium fish tanks. They are made of plastics and contain suitable filtration media. The air box filters are no longer used in professional or commercial units where the previous three types are more popular. They can provide low cost easy installable aquarium filtration units that a newbie or small fish tank owners can easily use.

Article Source: Desert Coral Aquatics