What Is The Right Substrate To Use For A Bearded Dragon

Bearded Dragons Substrates

The substrate (sometimes called flooring) is the material used to line your dragon’s housing. In their native environment, Beardies live in sandy desert areas. Playground sand is often used because it is relatively dust free and easy to maintain, although there have been reports of intestinal impaction. Substrates can also include wheat bran (pest free and rated for human consumption), outdoor carpeting, non-stick padded shelf liner, and paper towels. Other good substrates are newspaper, pea rock or aquarium gravel.

Be careful if you use any type of loose substrate when decorating, as many dragons will try to dig under their cage furnishings and can become trapped or crushed if furnishings are not wellplaced. Good substrate should be clean and safe. Be careful of substrates that could cause harm to your dragon.

Materials to Avoid:

The following are bad for one main reason - impaction. A lot of stores may try and tell you that they are suitable, they may even be using them themselves, but they are wrong.

Each of the following has been proven to cause impaction and death to Bearded Dragons (as well as other reptiles) and should be avoided:

- Corn Cob: Hard, large and indigestible for Beardies.

- Walnut Shell: It looks harmless enough, but the edges are very sharp and it could kill your dragon very easily. There have been documented impaction deaths in Bearded Dragons from this. Also goes under a variety of brand names, so check package labeling careful before listening to and buying from pet stores.

- Calcisand: The problem with this product is twofold. First, they like the flavor of it and may eat it if they are lacking adequate calcium in their diet. Second, it can clump and form an indigestible bolus in their digestive tract.

- Repti Bark: very fibrous and could easily end up causing impaction and has been known to end up lodged in the vent.

- Original lizard litter (made from the kenfa tree) and Jungle Blend.

Substrates such as mulch, shredded tree bark, or corn cob should not be used as they can hold moisture and promote bacterial growth.

Any of the wood shaving like cedar or pine should also be avoided - cedar had dangerous aromatic oils and pine can get impacted if ingested.

You should be also be very cautious using bleach on Dragon’s enclosure, the heat from their lights can cause toxic fumes from the bleach.

Substrates to use:

There are several good substrates. The use of one or another depends of severall factors - like the age of the dragon(s), their numbers and others.

One very important tip: It is extremely important to make sure you never use sand in your beardy’ s cage until they are bigger then 6 inches in length - not including the tail.

All the best for you and your dragon(s),

Florian Ross

Florian Ross is a small lizard expert and a freelancer who developed comprehensive guides to help people succeed with their bearded dragon pet and have your bearded dragon lizard live two times longer. His guides on Bearded Dragons are considered the definitive guides on raising Bearded Dragons.

Find out more tips on raising Bearded Dragons Lizards and having them live 2 times longer, with his popular ebook about Bearded Dragons or get a free sample of Florian’s bearded dragons caresheet

What Are The Right Foods For A Bearded Dragon?

Feeding Bearded Dragons

The type of food you feed your dragon can vary depending on its age. At the earlier stages of life a dragon will need more protein and fewer greens, but it is advisable to introduce greens as early as you can. If you shun these, your pet may not take to them later as it matures. Bearded Dragons are omnivorous - they eat bugs and vegetation.

Your dragon will feed only if both the food you give it and its body temperature are right and will not show any appetite if the conditions are wrong and even if it would show an appetite and feeds, it cannot digest the food if the temperature is wrong.

In good condition your bearded dragon should be a hearty eater and considering the importance of various conditions that influence its feeding and digestion, here is a short nutrition checklist:

- Pay attention to the health of insects you store for feeding your dragon.

- Wash greens / vegetables thoroughly.

- Adequate light and heat - both are vital for your bearded dragon’s satisfactory food intake.

- Try and hand-feed insects to your dragon.

- Clear uneaten greens / vegetables from dragon’s cage daily. Clean dish.

- Guard against vitamin A overdose.

- Gut-load insects before you feed them to your dragon.

- Choose younger prey because of its lower chitin content. - Supplement normal food with mineral (calcium) and vitamin additions.

- Make feeding age-appropriate.

- Chop greens and vegetables finely.

- Fasten suitable larger greens to a peg for your dragon to nibble.

- Match size of prey to size of your dragon’s mouth. (Prey size half the width of the mouth)

- Offer water to your dragon through spraying, misting (greens and vegetables) and in dish.

Beside these, always remember to never-ever feed your dragon the items not recommended them (see the list in Find Out About Bearded Dragons).

All the best for you and your dragon(s),

Florian Ross

Florian Ross is a freelancer and small lizard expert. For more tips on raising Bearded Dragons Lizards and having them live 3 times longer, go to http://www.pets-lovers.com/bd/beardeddragons.htm

How To Bath A Bearded Dragon

Many bearded dragons owner don’t know how to keep a
dragon clean, so here are some words about bathing
a bearded dragon. This should give you the basics about.

Bathing is an important part in keeping a healthy dragon. Regular
bathing helps improve the Beardie’s overall hydration status and
keep the Beardie clean and happy.

Most Bearded Dragons prefer to potty in the tub (making it very
easy for you to clean up after them and disinfect the surfaces).
Baths also help during shedding, keeping the loosening skin soft.

Some Beardies are comfortable bathing in the sink or the bath tub
and others may not like bath time at all. You can try placing a
see-through Rubbermaid container on your countertop and gently
placing your Beardie inside. He may feel more comfortable resting
on your hand while it is submerged in the water. Or you could try
rolling up a wash cloth and letting him rest his arms on it. They
need to feel secure or they will never enjoy bath time.

While bathing your Bearded Dragon, the bath water should ideally be
warm on your wrist and not hot, much like bath water for a small
child. Make the water only as deep as your Beardie’s chest or half
way up their front arms. You should never leave your Beardie
unattended in the bath because accidents only take a second to
happen.

The ideal temperature for the bath water should be …

More on bathing and caring your bearded dragon, along with everything
you need to know about bearded dragons, you can find on Bearded Dragons
Secrets Revealed Ebook.

Florian Ross is a freelancer and small lizard expert. For more tips on raising Bearded Dragons Lizards and having them live 3 times longer, go to http://www.pets-lovers.com/bd/beardeddragons.htm

How To Keep A Bearded Dragon Healthy And Long Living?

Bearded Dragons are extremely hardy lizards, when they are provided
with the proper temperatures and lighting in their environment.
However, they are also pets who do their best to hide their
symptoms from us when they become ill, as do most other reptiles.
This is no doubt an instinctual behavior, since a sick Beardie, in
the wild, would probably not live for very long.

Since your Beardie can’t groan or complain about where it hurts,
you must use your observation skills to determine when something is
not right. There are times when a healthy Beardie will act
differently, but these changes should be seen for what they are by
the experienced veterinarian.

Because of this, you need to be very aware of what normal behavior
is for each of your particular dragons, and what is not. An alert
eye can generally spot a problem long before it becomes a major
concern. Particular attention should be paid to each dragon’s
eating habits, and the amounts that they usually eat, as well as
what is the norm as far as how often they present with bowel
movements, and what they usually look like, when they do. Attention
should also be paid to the amount of urates (the white solid or
powdery materials) that are passed within the bowel movements, as a
change in this can be a sign of kidney problems.

If you purchased your dragons from a pet shop, unfortunately you
may have gotten more than the one living thing that you paid for…
there is a better than a 50% chance that your dragon may be
carrying some type of intestinal parasite, particularly if they
were being housed with other dragons, and the conditions that they
were being kept in were not exactly as clean as you would have
liked.

They may be infested with coccidia, roundworms, pinworms,
hookworms, or numerous other pests. If you should buy from a
reputable breeder, this is much less likely to be the case, but
even then, it is possible.

For this reason, once you have had your dragon for two weeks, you
should make it a point to have him or her seen by a reputable vet,
who is well versed in the care of reptiles, and take in a stool
sample for testing. Give your dragon at least two weeks to settle
in, unless it is apparent that they are ill, as when they are
stressed, their parasite count, particularly the coccidia count,
may be higher than normal.

Diseases and Disorders

Normally, if you provide your dragon the standard habitat, food and
care, you will have the healthiest bearded dragon on earth. But,
from time to time your dragon could get sick. The most often
diseases, beardies get are:

1. Mites
2. Terminal Ingestion
3. Thermal Burns
4. Calcium Deficiency
5. Impaction
6. Hypovitaminosis A
7. Respiratory Infections
8. Dehydration
9. Stomatitis
10. Internal Parasites
11. Coccidia
12. Other Parasites
13. Dystocia (Egg Binding)
14. MBD (Metabolic Bone Disease)
15. Skin Problems

Detailed information on every on each diseas and treating
solutions, along with everything you need to know about bearded
dragons, you can find in the new complete guide on Bearded
Dragons at
http://www.pets-lovers.com/bd/beardeddragons.htm

Florian Ross is a freelancer and small lizard expert. For more tips on raising Bearded Dragons Lizards and having them live 3 times longer, go to http://www.pets-lovers.com/bd/beardeddragons.htm

How To Make A Bearded Dragon Eat More Veggies

Lizards from Pogona genus are commonly named as Bearded Dragon. They have broad triangular heads and flattened bodies. They reach a manageable average size of about 18-22 inches (46-56 cms). The average weight is about 10-18 ounces (283-510 gm)

The species of Bearded Dragons get their name from a distinctive series of lateral spines (specialized scales) radiating horizontally from the head and base of the tail. As juveniles, they are semi-arboreal. As adults, they are mostly terrestrial, but climb to bask and search for prey.

A common problem many bearded dragons have is when the dragon
refuse to eat veggies. This can get very serious and caused many times
the death of bearded dragons. Here are a few tips you can use to
convince the pet to eat:

- put the crickets in his/her greens. I would also try some
supersworms over their greens. If there is a petsupplyplus by you.
They sell worms in small qty, it usually work with most dragons.
You can also shred something your dragon likes and gradually mix
with a lot of greens and vegetables

- Make sure the dragon sees the greens by placing them in a shallow
dish-which it can easily see. Pay attention also that the greens
are bite-sized.

- Try to attach a big leaf, using a clip. Let the dragon have the
fun of tearing it into pieces.

- Start feeding greens from the very first week. Then, it will
begin to relish them.

- Set your light timers to turn on the lights an hour before you
get out of bed in the morning. When you get up, give your beardie salad.
After having basked for an hour, the dragons will be hungry enough to eat the
greens.

This should completely solve this problem. Please let me know how
it worked. Wishing you lots of fun with your dragon!

Florian Ross is a freelancer and small lizard expert. For more tips on raising Bearded Dragons Lizards and having them live 3 times longer, go to http://www.pets-lovers.com/bd/beardeddragons.htm

What to Look for when Choosing a Bearded Dragon?

Many times people get a beardie and just love the creature but unfortunately the animal dies in a couple of weeks or months. In fact, statistics show that more than 70% of beardies die in their first year of life, if they live together with a new owner.

So, when you want to get a Bearded Dragon, you should look it over carefully. Some things you should notice right away is how alert and active the Dragon is. Do not buy a Beardie which looks to be lethargic and is unable to lift its head.

Before deciding which Beardie to buy, do ensure that you check them for sores, burns, external parasites or any deformities. One of the most important things is to look at the size of the Beardie. If too young, bearded dragons can be very fragile and more apt to become ill or overly stressed. It is much easier to care for a more developed Bearded Dragon. If you are a beginner owner it is highly recommended to start with a juvenile rather than a hatchling.

Good signs

When buying a dragon, look for good signs. This is a good start. If the dragon can claim these signs, then you might have found your new pet:

1. No missing toes or tail nip

2. A tail curled up towards the head

3. An active animal or basking

4. Eyes are clear and open.

Bad signs

Also, check for these bad signs:

1. Lethargy

2. Any form of excretions around the eyes

3. Missing toes, tail nip

4. No movement

5. Depressions in back of head

You should also pay attention where the dragon is kept. If the place claims poor conditions, there is a good chance you’ll get an animal with a poor health.

Florian Ross is a freelancer and small lizard expert. For more tips on raising Bearded Dragons Lizards and having them live 3 times longer, go to http://www.pets-lovers.com/bd/beardeddragons.htm

Who Else Wants a Bufo Alvarius Toad?

The reason why someone may want Bufo Alvarius toads may surprise you. It is to milk them. Perhaps the idea of milking a toad may seem like a joke. You may even have already thought that the punch line to the “how do you milk a toad?” joke would be “First you get a very small stool.” But you may be assured this is no joke. People actually do milk Bufo Alvarius toads.

What is toad venom used for? The milky white venom of the Bufo Alvarius toad contains the alkaloid 5- methoxy- N,N- dimethyltryptamine (5-MEO-DMT) which has very powerful hallucinogenic properties. Although there have been rumors and urban legends about people licking toads to get high, those who use toad venom do not actually ingest it. Rather, they have been known to dry the venom and then smoke precisely measured quantities of it.

How do you get one of these remarkable toads? If you live in or wish to visit the southwest United States, the toad, known both as the Colorado River toad and the Sonoran Desert toad, is found mainly in the Sonoran Desert. Their known range reaches from the south east of California into lowland Arizona and extreme southwestern New Mexico, at elevations that vary from sea level all the way up to over 1500 meters.

Once you get to this area, you will want to know what to look for. The Bufo Alvarius is a large toad, the largest species native to North America. Their leathery skin coloration varies from olive brown to black, with warts colored pale orange and a beige colored undercarriage. It is remarkable for the large, unique oval to sausage-shaped glands on the upper sides of its arms and legs and on its neck. These are the glands that are milked for their venom.

A nocturnal amphibian, Bufo Alvarius spends most of the day under the ground and away from the bright sun and high temperatures of the Sonoran Desert. As darkness falls, they move outside and hang around moist areas near rivers and irrigation ditches. The best time to find them is during the breeding season, from May through July. Toad hunters should equip themselves with a cloth carrying sack and a good flashlight.

For someone who is interested in owning a Bufo Alvarius toad, whether for the purpose of milking its hallucinogenic venom or simply to have a fascinating and unusual pet, there is an alternative to making a trek to the Sonoran Desert and splashing around irrigation ditches with a flashlight after dark. That option is to purchase one, or perhaps a male and female pair of adult Colorado River toads. One company that offers these toads for sale, along with other ethnobotanical products, is Bounding Bear Botanicals. The company is based in Lawrence, Kansas, not the Sonoran Desert, but they have a convenient on-line system that allows customers to make purchases via the Internet. It should be noted that Bufo Alvarius toads are sold with the caution that they are poisonous, and should be kept away from children and animals.

Robert Scheer is a freelance journalist and consultant for the Bufo Alvarius Report web site. For more information visit http://www.bufoalvariusreport.com

Marine Iguana Diagram

The marine iguana diagram for convection currents can help to understand how the marine iguana lives and thrives. The marine iguana diagram shows it’s grouping of cold and warm ocean currents as well as the different distinct regions where the animals and plants live. Take a look at the dark green areas of the marine iguana diagram to reflect where the animals and plants live, thrive and survive. It clearly displays the colder waters coming in and the warmer waters and also shows where the marine iguana can be found.

The marine iguana diagram above consists of the Galapagos Islands, which is where this rare creature is found. It is rare and is considerably different in biological make up than that of his cousins found in North America and South America and even from the iguanas that many house at pets.

Understanding the Marine Iguana Diagram

To be able to effectively understand the above marine iguana diagram, you must first realize that there are many underwater landscapes that are a major role player in the variation of water temperature surrounding the islands. There are many volcanoes that lie deep under the water that almost reach the surface and because of this, there are a variety of species that live there. For example, it isn’t surprising to see many penguins on the Galapagos Islands as well as marine iguana. It is the mixture of hot and cold water temperatures that creates this rare mixture of animal and plant life.

The Galapagos Islands have recently become the world’s largest protected natural area because although it is difficult to understand if you have never been there and the marine iguana diagram certainly cannot portray is that these marine species and other species that live there, cannot be found on any other place on earth. There are over two thousand species that live there and among them are such creatures as sea lions, sea turtles as well as many others. As mentioned above, there are also penguins that live on the Galapagos Islands and they live just barely on the verge of the Northern Hemisphere because of its location in proximity to the equator.

The marine iguana diagram just cannot show you how precious these lands and waters are that make up the Galapagos Islands although if it could, it would show you a vast array of marine species such as sponges and corals that are at the bottom and are food for the variety of species that live there.

If you want to learn more about target="_blank">iguana cages please visit our site which is free to the public. You’ll find the best tips on everything to do with iguana care

Animals Of A Different Sort

Spitting cobras, emus, and a Gila monster were but a few of my living companions in the seventies. Ironically, I am so not an animal lover, it is more that I tolerate animals. If you had told me that one day I would live amongst exotic animals within the confines of my own home, I would have run the other way. For four years, I endured co-habitation with a strange husband and his strange home business. I met my ex-husband in Tennessee. We dated for a short time and during a moment of insanity, I agreed to leave my family and friends and run off to Florida with him. All of our belongings were packed in my Datsun pickup truck and off we went. Our destination was unknown. For one week our home was in a tent in the Okefenokee Swamp. Our neighbors were raccoons that ravaged through our meager food supply on a nightly basis. Mosquitoes as big as hummingbirds buzzed us relentlessly. Of course, there were alligators galore lurking in the water’s edge. Once, we rented a sixteen foot flat bottom boat and trolled a few good miles through the murky waters of the Okefenokee Swamp. In some spots it was like going through a jungle with the occasional alligator eyes peering above the surface of the water at us. All seemed well and almost relaxing until we ran out of gas and were upstream from the base camp. The sun was setting and no other boats were in sight. All we could do was paddle. I with the oar in the rear paddling on one side, then the other. My ex was in the front sculling to steer. My job of paddling was the more strenuous of the two, but there was no way that I was putting my arm in the water as gator bait. Fortunately, after about one hour, a loan boater was puttering his way back to camp and seeing our dilemma threw us a line and towed us back to shore.

Without remorse on my part, we left the swamp in search of a more stable home environment. Next stop was a small town called Lake City, Florida and a job offer for my spouse as an alligator wrestler at a place appropriately called Alligator Town. It was a paycheck which afforded us our first roof over our head, a travel trailer in a nearby trailer park. The trailer was so small that if anyone came to visit, we all had to sit outside. The belongings we had packed in my truck stayed in the truck. The bathroom in the trailer was not much more than a spicket in a small closet. One week was all I could stand. After that, we moved on up the road to a bigger trailer…whoopee. At least this place had a toilet and a tub in the same room. The spare bedroom was used to house our ferret, named Freddie. The living room was rather spacious, therefore, my hubby set up a large aquarium for his python (or maybe it was a boa constrictor), I forget. Whatever big snake it was, it escaped during the night. Can you imagine having to tell your neighbors that if they find a rather large nine foot snake, please return it to us? It brought us notoriety. The local newspaper got wind of it and ran an article. Fortunately, the snake was found and returned to its aquarium with extra cinder blocks on the top to keep it inside. My neighbors didn’t visit me.

To supplement our meager income, I got a job and we were able to locate a house in the country in which to move ourselves and our growing menagerie. The house was crummy, but beggars cannot be choosers. It was at the house that my husband decided to become an entrepreneur. He formed the Suwanee Zoological Society and the spare bedroom became home to caged rattlesnakes, pythons, cobras, copperheads, lizards, and anything else he could get his hands on. If I try really hard, I can conjure up memories in that house that nightmares are made of. One in particular was when I was sleeping and heard a noise out of the ordinary. I got out of bed and went into the hallway to the door of the spare bedroom housing all the critters. Like hundreds of other times, I opened the door and reached in and turned on the light switch. The first thing that caught my eye was the overturned cages on the bedroom floor. My next move made my heart stop and all the blood drained out of my head. I looked up from the floor and turned my head slightly and came face to face (within probably two inches) with a boa constrictor. Apparently, he had escaped from his cage and in so doing, knocked over anything it slithered over. Slowly backing away and closing the door shut, I went back to bed and slowly pulled the covers off my husband and then with a heavy handed slap in the middle of the back, woke him up. For the next few days, I was finding baby snakes all over the house, some were harmless, some were poisonous.

My best friend was not phased by our strange habitat and she visited frequently. On a whim, we decided to cook dinner for the gang. Bustling around the kitchen, we gathered our ingredients and cooking utensils to make the dinner. She was unable to locate a particular size pot in a bottom cabinet. I told her I would find it and reached into the cabinet and again experienced another heart-stopping moment when I realized my arm was hovering above the head of a coiled rattlesnake. Knowing well enough not to make a sudden move, I slowly backed out and when I knew I was out of range began yelling for my husband. Hearing the panic in my voice, he made haste to the kitchen and focused his attention to where I was pointing my finger. With a sigh of relief, he said, “So that’s where it has been hiding.”

The house we lived in was in need of much work. The kitchen was probably the worst room as it needed new linoleum, new wallpaper as what was in it was busy and hideous, and the ceiling had a hole in it leading to the attic. The hole was covered with a heavy piece of butcher paper. It was from this point that a six inch baby cobra dangled and it was I who noticed this anomaly. Again, summoning immediate help, my husband walked into the room and carefully pulled the little poisonous snake from the ceiling. Looking at me with the utmost sincerity said, “I was going to tell you about losing this snake.”

Snake hunting expeditions took my husband and his buddies away for days at a time. For the most part, I was only at the house for a few hours each night because I was working two jobs. All I wanted was a shower and a few hours sleep before the next shift started. The times when I was at the house alone usually did not bother me, except for one. A recently acquired addition to the animal inventory was a Gila monster, which is a very dangerous reptile. I instructed to feed the animal…carefully. Honestly, I did try, but it lunged and scared me to death. The Gila monster did not get its supper that night and it apparently was upset with me. Although it was in a cage in a closed off bedroom, it was making a terrible racket by banging up against the cage and making threatening guttural noises. I couldn’t afford to go to a motel and I had nowhere else to go, but I was determined not to stay in the same house with this creature; so I got my blanket and my pillow and slept in the car for the next two nights.

One day a package arrived at the house from a fellow reptile lover. Tokay geckos were supposed to be in the box, but we were not sure how many. The tape was carefully cut and the outside packing was peeled away. The lid was lifted off of the box and in a split second, hundreds of Tokay geckos escaped and ran at lighting speed in every direction. They are speedy little lizards. For the duration of our stay in that house, we were finding Tokay geckos everywhere. Our neighbors, who were not especially fond of our being there, reported geckos in their homes, too. It wasn’t totally a bad thing because they loved to eat roaches and palmetto bugs (which were in abundance) and spiders, which I despise. It was unnerving, however, to be lying in bed and feeling the scurrying lizard run across the covers or be awakened out of a deep sleep with their croaking. The reason they are called Tokay geckos is because that is what they actually say, ‘Toe-Kay’, over and over again.

My most memorable moment of self-awareness in that I was living in a mad house was on one of those days my husband was out on a reptile hunting expedition. I was home alone and it was pouring down rain, a real gully washer. A pickup truck drove up and a man with a large plastic garbage can stood on my doorstep. I answered the door and he asked if this is where someone bought snakes. I said, “yes, but you will have to come back later.” He said he couldn’t, he had a big rattlesnake and if we did not want it, he would go elsewhere. Well, I had witnessed my husband toting a sack containing snakes hundreds of times. I didn’t see the harm of giving the guy money and me putting the snake, still in the bag, in the “snake room” until my husband got home. Well, this particular snake was not in a bag. The man was wanting me to put the snake in a bag. When he took the top off the trash can, all I saw was a humongous body of the largest rattlesnake I had ever seen. “No way, man,” I said. He was actually angry that I wouldn’t take the snake off his hands and pay him money. He said a few choice words and left with his snake. When my husband returned, I recounted the event to him. His response was, “Are you crazy?…Do you know how much money that snake would bring?” Did I feel foolish because my priorities were not straight? No. This was the beginning of the end of our four year marriage.

I realize that all creatures are put on this earth for reason. They all have their place in this world and my spare bedroom is not one of them.