How would you like to get to more spots than you had previously imagined? How would you like to save a ton of money over traditional gas guzzling boats? How would you like to float and/or fish a river in the most convenient way imaginable? And how would you like to do any of these things with a boat that literally fits in the trunk of your car or back of your truck? If you answered yes to any of these question, the FoldCat 325 or 375 inflatable boat is for you.

Most inflatable pontoon boats have a huge, metal frame with a lot of parts. The FoldCat features a unique, patent pending Folding Frame design that can be assembled in just minutes. The FoldCat has a full floor so you have far more useable space than most inflatable fishing boats. This allows you to carry more fishing tackle and supplies than ordinary pontoon boats. There is plenty of room for your gang hooks and other fishing gear on a FoldCat inflatable boat. A FoldCat even offers rod holders for those of you who want to do some slow trolling.

Imagine floating down your favorite river, enjoying all the beauty that nature has to offer, then stopping if you so choose, to fish a nice riffle. Or maybe rowing across your favorite small lake to that ’secret’ spot that only you are aware of? The FoldCat inflatable boat offers the opportunity to do all of these things and more.

Imagine the convenience of carrying your boat in your vehicle? Not towing it behind your vehicle or strapping to your vehicle somehow. No, I’m referring to carrying your boat in your vehicle, and then just taking a couple of minutes to inflate it when you need it. What could be simpler that this? It takes longer to launch a traditional gas guzzling boat and park the vehicle and trailer than it does to simply inflate a FoldCat.

If your considering a pontoon boat for your fishing, boating, hunting, or just plain old relaxing needs a FoldCat is the pontoon boat for you. If you like spending time on lakes and larger rivers, a small motor can even be mounted to a FoldCat. That way you won’t have to paddle yourself all day long. FoldCat’s are the easiest and most convenient way to get from here to there on the water.

Trevor Kugler - Co-founder of JRWfishing.com

Trevor has more than 20 years of fishing experience, and raises his three year old daughter in the heart of trout fishing country….Montana.

Check Out Our Boats and Pontoons: http://www.jrwfishing.com/boats.html

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As the outside temperature warms up enough its time to
start preparing your boat for the new season

1) First you have to un wrap it this is when you want to
carefully “razors and knifes can do damage” remove the
cover or wrapping “these day many people use shrink wrap
for winter storage”

2) Now its time to start de-winterizing charge and
install the battery “it best stored inside for the winter

3) Then start checking the systems onboard inspect the motor
remove any winter covers that may have been installed.

4) Inspect clean or paint the bottom as necessary.
next check or change
a) antifreeze
b) lubes and oils if not done
it the fall “recommended”

5) Install the outdrive if necessary hook up a water adaptor
and start the motor let it warm up a little wile

6) after this a tune up is recommended for a good full season
this also may detect unseen problems

7) Inspect the following areas:
a) electronics
b) electric
c) Pumps
d) lights
e) accessories
f) what ever else that may be on your boat
clean and wax as necessary.

9) Inspect and test trailer lights, hookups, tires, ect.
These are some of the common things to do in spring
Be shore to check with your marine service technician

Inspect Your boating Safety Gear check for expiration dates or damage
“This is a good time to to evaluate if you have enough life jackets.”

Now all should have went well and your ready for
a successful season, next comes launching your boat.

Robert W. Seeburg Jr. is the designer of Bassbob.com
Your Leading Resource For Outdoors - Recreation
http://www.Bassbob.com

In the spring When you decide to take your boat out for the
first ride of the season there are things you
should check before launching your boat.

First you should start to motor and be sure its O.K. any
problems here and your trip will be
problematic then be sure to check your trailer tie downs,
winch, tires bearings, lights “It’s a
good idea to stop for fuel on the way”.
After getting to the ramp and getting settled in line take
a look around the outside and under
the hull then the propeller area, check for any prospective
problems.

Then be sure to install the hull plug or plugs “fishing
setups vary” first you should stick
something in the opening to make sure all the water has
drained out. Most are located in the
back lowest part of the hull.
Get onboard scrutinize for fuel and vapor hazards Then
examine Your Safety Gear after you may
want to load any other supplies onboard “coolers, food,
gear, ect.” it’s better then waiting for
the last minute.
After these are done and youre still waiting in line you may
want to inspect the ramp there may
be obstacles or sudden drop offs that you may need to know
before you back in. Then evaluate the
others as they launch then for pointers of what to and not
to do. “This can be very entertaining
as people do some of the strangest things I’m not sure but
I think it has to do with being the
center of attention all of a sudden”. To some people use
public ramp watching is a form of
recreation.

When its your turn at the ramp first thing “Don’t panic
relax take a deep breath then go” I like
to have a line tied to the bow cleat first then take your
time and carefully back your boat down
slowly until the stern is floating. Get onboard check the
bilge for fumes or too much water
“missed a hull plug” when the boat is leveled out. Now if
all is well prep and start the motor
“be sure the propeller area is clear” once running unhook
the trailer and ease the boat off the
trailer tie to dock or have someone help and park your
vehicle “other People in line appear to
get bothered if you leave you vehicle on the ramp too
long”

Now all should have went well and your ready for a great
day trip.

Robert W. Seeburg Jr. is the designer of Bassbob.com
Your Leading Resource For Outdoors | Recreation
http://www.Bassbob.com/

The job of most pumps found on boats is to move liquids around from one place to another as quickly and efficiently as they can. Correct installation of these pumps can dramatically influence just how long a pump lasts before disaster strikes and it stops dead. Clearly, most rotary and diaphragm pumps have to be of reasonable quality to do their job properly but generally speaking, like fuel tanks, once pumps are installed they are instantly forgotten until the day of reckoning arrives and it expires.

To ensure maximum life from water pumps, for example, the first rule is location, location, location. Pumps installed in dry, ventilated areas will fare far better than pumps that are stuck in some wet, airless hole. The dreaded rust will soon be into our defenceless little friends way down there! The second rule with pumps is to fit effective filters along the piping supply system to prevent impellor blockage and subsequent damage. Some filters are quite useless in some cases especially where aluminium tanks are concerned. The aluminium hydroxide that forms inside tanks can take the form of granules and powder and can easily slip through larger gauges of mesh and clog the pump body.

Lastly, the use of an accumulator tank is recommended to ensure reliable and effective system function. With an accumulator tank in the system, the intervals between cut out and cut out will be longer when only small amounts of water are drawn off. This amounts to much less wear and tear on the pump itself.

WATER SUPPLY
Little do boaties realise that if they have a dockside direct water attachment system on their boat, incorrectly set ‘check valves’ can put excess loads onto the pumps (and pipes) on the boat putting sensitive flanges and valves out of the game. These pressures must never be taken for granted and should be checked on a regular basis.

Remember, too many pumps are prone to failure if air is allowed to suck into the pipes. The water pressure fails, air is sucked in and the motor responds to the reduced load then accelerates and helps to burn out the now dry impellor very quickly. It is critical to keep these pumps supplied with plenty of water at all times.

LOCATION
You’d think to look at a new $300.00 diaphragm pump that it would last a lifetime. Properly looked after, they could but what chance do they stand when they are stuffed into wet, mouldy bilges and never looked at? Most pump failures are due to corrosion inside the pump body. Water gains ingress to the electrics and the corrosion starts. After all, why shouldn’t they get wet inside if they are in a soaking environment ? They aren’t a Rolex after all! So steps must be taken, WD40, fish oil and sensible installation could help here.

WIRING
When installing pumps, wiring is extremely important. Once again a common fault is to wire up an expensive pump with ten cent wiring. This will inevitably lead to problems. Wrong rated cable, bad connections and lack of decent contact breakers will take their toll and fail without warning. Check all cables and if in doubt, run new cables into your valuable pumps.

SPARES TO GO
All pumps, water, fuel or even air must have some kind of propulsive device to move the fluids along from source to destination. Generally, they are known as impellors and come in all kinds of materials, metal, neoprene, plastic and rubber. They all have one thing in common. They will, one day, fail. The causes can be expiry of expected life hours, structural failure, foreign object ingress or burnout. The methods of replacement are fairly well documented but the key rule is:
Keep spares… fuses, impellors, clips, brushes and even a spare motor as well as spare instructions!

WHAT IF MY PUMP FAILS?
Check the obvious first. Power connections, contact breaker or fuse blown? Impellor jammed? Burned out? Motor just stuck? Broken drive belt? After the first things are looked at you’ll have to take the pump out and disassemble it. They can be tricky so sketch out a diagram first. Be careful of damaging gaskets and have some cleaning materials to hand. Wire brush, bronze wool, not steel, WD40, small screwdrivers. Naturally enough do not pull the pump down if it’s under warranty because it will become void.

Often you will find the brushes worn or stuck. The impellor might be broken and a piece jamming the motor or valve. Check all flanges, valves, belts and brushes, spray thoroughly with WD40 and clean carefully, ensuring no damage occurs to the copper winding armature. Eighty percent of the time, the repair will be simple and a few more years of life obtained from the motor and pump. Most spares for all popular makes are available from the importers and manufacturers and fairly easy to obtain.

If the worst happens a full repair should be obtainable from your pump dealer or agent
See Below for breakout boxes!!

REPLACING MOTORS TIP!
Often the hard part of replacing the motor inside a pump is getting the rotor back past the brushes, which are spring loaded. Often you can keep the brushes back with masking tape against the springs. Once in, cut the tape and remove completely allowing the springs to release.

TIP!
Before pulling any DC motor apart keep a diagram nearby for when you re-assemble. Keep all parts in a dry cardboard box!

TIP!
Don’t use steel wool for cleaning an electric motor! The steel fragments will stick to the magnets and ruin the motor.

TIP!
Test your motor on the bench with a 12 volt battery before re-installing. You will save time and temper if the motor doesn’t work!

Terry Buddell is a freelance journalist and a Marine surveyor, boat designer and shipwright,
He lives on board his yacht “The Nicky J Miller’ that he built himself in The Gold Coast Australia and
has sailed his yacht up the East Coast to the beautiful Whitsunday Islands. He is currently resident in Gladstone Queensland where he is building another boat for his collection! Terry can be contacted on arcus1@bigpond.com or http://www.dolphinboatplans.com

Summer arrived this year well and truly with a bang and the long hot days are here where the average boatie heads straight to the marina and jumps on board to head out to the cooling airs and delights of the open waters. However, on arrival at the boat, the doors and hatches are often flung open to a huge gust of hot fetid air that had builds up unbearably inside the cabin over the long, hot days.

Sometimes, the heat build-up cannot be dissipated by the outside breeze and cabin temperatures can stay in the high 30’s or even more. Fans are next to useless and tend to flatten already depleted batteries. The long awaited weekend away can turn into a sweltering disappointment made worse by the frustration of indecisions of whether or not to risk opening windows for a breath of air or being eaten alive by midges and mozzies.

Luckily for us, we live in an age of technical wizardry and help is at hand. The once undreamed of luxury of air-conditioning in small craft is now a reality due to huge advances in boat electrics, silent generators and efficient marine air-conditioning units that are a marvel of compact engineering.

HOW IS ‘COLD’ GENERATED?
In order to cool cabins that are too hot caused by direct solar radiation onto cabin decks, sides and roofs, real relief can only be provided by an efficient air-conditioning unit. These units literally take away the heat from the area or body you wish to cool.
A good example of how this happens is when a highly volatile liquid, i.e. meths or alcohol spirit is poured over your hand, you will experience an acute sensation of cold. This is because the liquid spirit or meths is evaporating into the atmosphere. The liquid is using the energy to evaporate from your hand to enable it to vaporise. Your hand provides the heat necessary to do this. If it were possible to create a closed circuit in which the evaporating liquid was ‘re-captured’ and sent round again to repeat the process, permanent cold would result.

This is exactly the principle used in refrigeration and air-conditioning. Generally speaking, it is preferable to use a closed-circuit system where the air in the cabin is continuously recycled. Why a closed circuit system? Closed circuits use the already cooled air that has partially had the heat removed already so it makes sense to ‘re-cycle’ it instead of introducing fresh hot air which needs heaps of ‘energy transference’ to get it down to a comfortable temperature.

THE POWER SOURCE
Like everything in life you don’t get something for nothing and in order to power air-conditioning systems, a substantial power supply is required. Ironically, in hot weather, the poor old fridge is already first in the queue for battery power and there’s never much left over for the ever hungry air-conditioner. However, as mentioned, it is possible to box clever and with a little bit of applied science, some 12 volt evaporator systems that pull a fridge down to -10 degrees centigrade can be robbed of cool air via a blower (or sucker!) back out in to the cabin for cooling.

Some small 12 volt compressors (The Danfoss) used by newcomer WAECO PACIFIC Refrigeration have truly amazing output for their size and electrical consumption. Energy is efficiently used for true refrigeration and minimal power use in these systems and now even 20 footers can enjoy the luxury of a small energy efficient air-conditioning and refrigeration supplemented by new age amorphous silicon solar panels to provide oomph into the latest high tech batteries. Captain Cook would roll over in his grave if he knew what was happening today!

THE BLACK ART OF CHOOSING
With modern boats it is quite difficult to ascertain specific size requirements for system outputs. There are many deciding factors. What size boat? What window area? Is the glass tinted? Are there any curtains or blinds? Even such factors as interior furnishings can affect the outcome. Mahogany heats up to 70 degrees cent, lightwood can be only 45 to 50 degrees cent.

Do doors and hatches close tightly? There are even more questions to answer but generally a good rule is to try and keep as much heat as possible outside the boat. Heat that never gets in doesn’t require cooling. Remember, professional advice is worth its weight in gold. Don’t guess yourself, you will invariably get it wrong.

MAINTENANCE
Generally, electrical outputs are high with air con systems and your electrical system must be able to cope. This means all cables and connections must never remain hidden and neglected for years. Corrosion, loose wires, dodgy in-line fuses, can all undermine the electrical efficiency of your system supply and help to keep the volts working efficiently.

Vigilance is required and fridge/air-conditioner pipes must be insulated and kept corrosion free. At the first sign of diminished performance, call in the refrigeration mechanic as gas may be leaking causing low pressures and damage to valves, bearings and internals. Batteries too must be checked for A1 electrical storage capability and solar panels should be monitored for output performance and component age breakdown. Nothing lasts forever!

Internal heat build-up can be prevented by fitting solar vents so there is a free, fresh air flow and the air inside the cabins has a fighting chance when the unit is initially turned on. The same rules apply, if the heat doesn’t get in you don’t have to waste energy cooling it down. If the cabin temperature is 5 degrees cent more when the blinds are open, shut ‘em!

Remember, with that big initial handful of electricity an air-conditioner requires when it first starts up, ensure all wiring, fuses, contact breakers and generators can cope and keep spares handy wherever possible. Regular oil changes keep gennies sweet, oil is cheap, but generators are really expensive!

CONCLUSION
From the aforementioned, it is clear to see each boat has its own specifications for air-conditioner requirements but oddly enough these systems are linked closely to the crew’s needs. A happy medium is necessary to make sure all runs well. To ensure both human and boat systems run smoothly together, good planning is required where air-conditioning is concerned, perhaps more so than any other on board!….stay cool!

Terry Buddell is a freelance journalist and a Marine surveyor, boat designer and shipwright,
He lives on board his yacht “The Nicky J Miller’ that he built himself in The Gold Coast Australia and
has sailed his yacht up the East Coast to the beautiful Whitsunday Islands. He is currently resident in Gladstone Queensland where he is building another boat for his collection! Terry can be contacted on arcus1@bigpond.com or http://www.dolphinboatplans.com

There you are, Saturday afternoon, gently bubbling along on your way to your favourite watering hole when the cry is suddenly heard, “Look out…here comes another one…my God, look at that wake!”

Momentary panic ensues for the fifth time in twenty minutes as all aboard spring to ‘action stations’ yet again. Drinks grabbed, sandwiches stowed, kids lashed to Mother and the feeling of impending fear as another forty-foot gleaming power-boat roars down the waterway towards you. In a welter of boiling foam and diesel fumes, the Gin-palace roars past whilst the revelers cast barely a glance behind at the havoc they have caused.

Moments later, all hell breaks loose as a metre high wake crashes into your craft, scattering objects and breakables in all directions. Then, just as the kids are calmed, dishes collected and tempers are cooling, up goes the cry … “Oh no! Not again!”… I for one, have completely had enough of being tipped all over the place by these irresponsible self-centred souls and I should imagine, so have quite a few others out there. They obviously don’t realise how many people are busy cooking food and boiling kettles whilst moored up during the day.

What the hell can we do about it?
At the time, it seems, precious little. However, the law is firmly in place to attempt to minimise this kind of behaviour. Firstly, get the boat name, make and registration number. If you can only get the name, it’s possible to trace the craft with the relevant authorities later (Department of Boating and Fisheries, Water Police or the Department of Transport).

Lurking behind a paper mountain, if we care to search hard enough for it, is “The Marine Safety Act and Regulations 1995” and it is there (along with many other regulations) to help keep out waterways safe and free from these kind of incidents.

Who can enforce the act?
The Water Police, Department of Boating and Fisheries and Department of Transport do have craft patrolling most frequented areas. Though, naturally enough, they cannot be everywhere at once, so it is up to us, the innocent recipients of those unsafe and dangerous individuals who threaten our safety, to take a few steps of our own.

Here comes that wake!
Should you suffer a ‘waking’ problem of serious proportions don’t just accept it as the norm. Apart from risk of personal, physical injury from falling objects, slipping and so on, there is a graver risk of your craft, even if it is fairly large, of overturning or being completely swamped. Boats were never designed to cope with the sudden huge impact of a thunderous rolling wash and severe strains and damage can be placed on masts, rigging and so on. It is especially dangerous at night as a couple of fishermen, in their Tinny are really vulnerable and if upset, could easily be swept away to drown. Their small single light, low to the water, can easily be missed in the glare of a huge power boat’s instrument panel or easily mistaken for a shore light or distant beacon.

This is the age of the mobile phone, so why not carry the number of the local branch of the Water Police or Department of Boating and Fisheries with you. It’s probably a good idea to have their number on hand anyway. So, you don’t have a phone? What about VHF? Call the offender direct. Try telling him about the damage he’s caused and the offending wash he’s leaving behind him. Better still, tell him how you’ve got his boat name and registration number and just what a great delight it will be to sue the pants off him with the aid of the number of witnesses you have to verify his unsociable behaviour. In fact, should you be amongst a number of moored craft that all suffer a similar ‘waking’ problem, why not get together and bear witness for each other?

Why not give a warning call to the world in general on a suitable frequency to warn others up ahead. Give the area, boat, colour, with any luck, they may be running straight towards a Police Boat anyway.

Where do you stand with the law?
Although I don’t profess to be any kind of legal expert in these matters there is in place, as previously mentioned, “The Marine Safety Act and Regulations, 1995” which is in place specifically to prevent these acts of hooliganism on our waters. A spokesman from the Department of Boating and Fisheries in our local area (Gold Coast, Queensland) confirmed (along with the local Water Police Department) that offences are unfortunately on the increase Australia-Wide, according to statistics.

The spokesman pointed out that the act provides for two separate parts of the act to work in parallel:

1. Penalties for infringement of Speed Limits.
2. Sections of legislation to be proven in Law with regard to incidents of damage and/or injury for excessive wash damage to persons and property.

“It’s possible for civil and criminal charges to be run together,” he said. In other words, you can sue the offender whilst the Department of Boating and Fisheries or the Water Police press charges at the same time for the same or similar offences. It’s a fair bet that your case will be looked on favourably if the relevant Department is also taking action.

However, in order to do so under the law the case must be proven. So, therefore, witnesses must come forth and statements made. It seems a bit un-Australian to do these things but why the hell should we suffer the actions of just a few irresponsible individuals who couldn’t give a damn anyway? It’s just a big laugh for some of those galoots.

I urge small boat owners to stick together, discuss it at your club or at the local Marina. Spread the word, this behaviour isn’t tolerated on the road so why should it be on the water? If successfully prosecuted an offender can be fined a whopping great 200 penalty units (equivalent to $65 per unit).

Waterborne Mosquitoes!
Jet Skis, I’m talking about! Personal Watercraft if you like! The waterborne equivalent of the trail bike. Yes, a great invention, a source of amusement and joy to usually one person… the rider! And they are generally so engrossed with their bit of fun they fail to realise that anyone else is being bothered or endangered. Did you realise that if you are buzzed at speed by a Jet Ski that the owner commits an offence?… and I quote, Section 95 (2) of “The Marine Safety Act and Regulations 1995”

“Also, a person must not operate a personal watercraft at a speed of more than 6 knots in waters within 30m of a person in the waters – Maximum Penalty – 200 penalty units”
So, be warned! That’s a hundred feet in old language… keep away from everyone else if you want to show your prowess!

Alcohol and the Water User
A spokesman for the Water Police also confirmed drunken driving on the water is on the increase due to “an increase in boat numbers on the water” in the last five years. Offenders can be arrested, tested and subject to an on-the-spot fine of $120.00. Serious cases can be escorted to a place of holding, on or off the water and subject to all the indignities that drunken driving awaits them. “We treat drunks on the water the same way as we do on the roads.” Once again, be warned!

I must say that one of my greatest pleasures is to see people out enjoying themselves on the many and varied waterways that we have here in Australia. It doesn’t take a rocket scientist to realise that it is only the idiot minority that are specified. Unfortunately, for the rest of us, it’s on the increase and is an ever present problem that is worse in some areas, notably the more popular and busy waterways, adjacent to the more populated areas of the country.

The aim of this article is to try to impress on a few folks around the country that they don’t have to put up with mindless actions of a couple of twerps in a tinny roaring up and down the canals, or, having to batten down the hatches every time a giant Gin-Palace appears on the horizon in a cloud of spray. Let’s keep our waterways safe, they are unique and pleasurable and available to all and sundry… let’s try and keep them that way!

Here are the relevant sections of the “The Marine Safety Act and Regulations 1995” that apply on the water, cut them out and keep them… They apply to you and I and be aware of the implications. Don’t forget, you have a duty of care to all your fellow boaters, myself included!

The following rules and regulations from The Marine Safety Acts and Regulations Act 1995 (if applicable in NZ) can be used as a breakout box

Speed limit for ship operating near person in water etc:

95.(1) A person must not operate a ship (including a personal watercraft) at a speed of more than 6 knots in waters…

(a) within 30 m of any of the following…

(i) a person in the waters;
(ii) a ship at anchor, moored or made fast to the shore or aground;
(iii) a jetty, wharf, boat ramp or pontoon in or on the waters;
(iv) a float or a structure exhibiting a code A flag or other commonly accepted signal indicating the presence of a diver in the waters; and
(b) for which a speed limit of 6 knots or lower has not been stated under a gazette notice.
Maximum Penalty – 200 penalty units.
(2) Also, a person must not operate a personal watercraft at a speed of more than 6 knots in waters within 60 m of a person in the waters.
Maximum Penalty – 200 penalty units.

Speed limit if ship causing damage by its wash

96. A person must not operate a ship at a speed at which the ship’s wash is reasonably capable of causing…
(a) a marine incident; or
(b) damage to the shoreline.
Maximum Penalty – 200 penalty units.

Chief executive’s power to fix speed limits for ships

206A. (1) The chief executive may fix speed limits for ships by gazette notice.
(2) The gazette notice is subordinate legislation.
(3) A person must not operate a ship at a speed of more than a speed limit fixed under this section.

Maximum Penalty – 200 penalty units.

(4) The chief executive may erect or mark, at a place in waters for which a speed limit is fixed under subsection (1) or adjacent to the waters, a sign (a “speed sign”) stating the speed limit for the waters.
(5) A speed sign may be an official traffic sign except that the speed indicated by the number on the sign is the speed in knots.
(6) This section does not prevent a regulation making provision about speed limits.
(7) If there is an inconsistency between a regulation and a gazette notice, the regulation prevails to the extent of the inconsistency.

Regulation making power

207. The Governor in Council may make regulations under this act.

Terry Buddell is a freelance journalist and a Marine surveyor, boat designer and shipwright,
He lives on board his yacht “The Nicky J Miller’ that he built himself in The Gold Coast Australia and
has sailed his yacht up the East Coast to the beautiful Whitsunday Islands. He is currently resident in Gladstone Queensland where he is building another boat for his collection! Terry can be contacted on arcus1@bigpond.com or http://www.dolphinboatplans.com

One of the common sights commonly seen onboard boats these days is a row of wall to wall batteries displayed by a proud owner who boasts; “Power?… no problems mate, there’s enough amps here to supply the national grid of a small African Nation!” However, as we all know, there ain’t no such thing as a free lunch and upon enquiring “How do you charge up this lot?” the answer is a knowing smile accompanied by the giveaway phrase, “I always run the engine for a couple of hours every day, that’s heaps!”

Fine, except for a couple of things. The automotive alternator (usually one of about 35 amp hour rating) is the most widely used source of on board charging devices, along with the poor old ‘taken for granted’ el cheapo battery charger that seems to be permanently connected to the 240 volt dockside connection when the boat is in port, which is generally permanently in a state of twenty four hour meltdown.

The real problem is that in the majority of most onboard charging setups the systems are incorrectly rated for the installed battery capacity and the net result is the inability of the charging systems to adequately get the batteries to charge properly. The result of that is wasted money each year and in many cases a severe risk of overheating cables, stressed circuits and the risk of onboard fires. A shortened battery life is par for the course and that leads to the blame being allocated to the innocent party, the battery.

Inadequate charging problems are especially relevant for outboard powered craft that at best produce tiny charging rates for the gear found aboard. Houseboats are typical cases of this syndrome.

The alternator is usually a very reliable system when it comes to battery charging duties but it is very important to realise they have several limitations when it comes to onboard use. True, they charge batteries reasonably well on a ‘day to day’ basis but it is little realised that a diesel engine that is used for battery charging duties can suffer damage by way of glazed cylinder bores when the engine is run with little or no load. Enter ‘Mr Big Bill’ following close behind. The maximum run time should not exceed an hour in the morning and one at night. However, if one hundred amps have been consumed and the total input is 70 amps (35 amps x 2 hours) we have a short fall. It is essential that full and proper charging to 100% capability is maintained otherwise the missing 20% will equal battery damage through undercharging. Therefore, it is vital to match ‘battery charging input’ to ‘required amps discharge’ usage to maintain the status quo. This is known as ‘battery load matching’.

Here’s a couple of points to bear in mind. When a battery is discharged quickly during use, the less the real amp hour capacity is. Excess discharging for the battery discharge rate during use (usually 10 to 20 amps per hour) can give up to 20% less amp hours available. On the other hand, too slow a discharge rate can give you much better figures. Trouble is, that batteries that discharge too slowly can be extremely hard to charge if allowed to drop below 50% capacity and trouble occurs when ‘charge up time’ comes around.

So you see, the battery charge/discharge scenario is a bit of a high wire act requiring at best, perfect balance and systems matching each other perfectly. So what do we look for in alternator outputs? Well, the overall charge rate is dependant on a few things. Battery condition, voltage regulation, engine/pulley ratio speeds. Ideally a battery will require 120% replacement by the alternator to bring it finally up to 100% charge value. The ‘lost’ 20% is due to losses incurred within the battery itself due to condition and internal resistances during the charge-up time.

If an alternator doesn’t seem to fully charge a battery there’s no earthly use in rushing out and replacing the alternator with a massive 130 amp job hoping you’ll nuke it into submission. Battery charging rates are ‘self limiting’ and really the best way to do it is at a firm but steady rate with the input voltages monitored by ‘smart charging circuits’. That is becoming much more common aboard boats today with sophisticated onboard systems requiring constant vigilance and monitoring.

However, back to alternator requirements. Correct matching and maintenance is paramount to achieve the true life of a shipboard alternator. All drives must be correctly aligned and no misalignment of pulleys can be tolerated. They must be of the same width and no abrasion or twisting allowed. Premature belt failure will arise if this is neglected. Drive belt tension is to be maintained. Slipping belts can overheat causing failure and incorrect output. 10mm is the norm. Little known is that the ‘under tensioned’ belt will also cause belt overheating, stretching, slippage with lack of electrical output.

On the other hand too tight a belt can be a disaster. Bearings will fail due to side loads and belt wear. Large output systems will also need dual belts due to higher physical load ratings.

Engine speeds must match the ‘cut in’ speeds of the regulators and also it must be checked that the maximum engine speed does not exceed the maximum speed of the alternator itself otherwise premature failure can occur.

ALTERNATOR MAINTENANCE
What can we do? On the face of it, it really doesn’t seem like much can be done but surprise, surprise there’s a lot more than you first realise! It’s a sad fact that ‘preventative maintenance’ on an alternator normally consists only of unbolting it when it burns out! Here’s a few sensible alternatives to stretch a couple more years out of it!

CHECK THE BELTS
Ø Clean
Ø Not twisted
Ø Cuts, dings, nicks or stretch marks
Ø Tension 10 mm not too tight

WIRING CONNECTIONS (CHECK MONTHLY)
Ø Clean
Ø Undamaged
Ø Stiff
Ø Not corroded
Ø Tighten connections properly
Ø Cracked, burnt or frayed

PULLEYS
Ø Undamaged
Ø Nicks, powdered rubber, too tight
Ø Loose

BRUSHES
Every 100 hours remove the alternator and turn the rotor. Listen for any ‘rough running’ bearings. Check the brushes and get the whole shebang taken to a marine electrical engineer. Get the following done:
Ø Check the alternator for correct output
Ø Renew bearings and brushes
Ø Check the diodes!

FURTHER PROBLEMS
Many onboard charging problems come about because conventional ‘automotive’ alternators are used to do the job that is beyond their capabilities. On a vehicle the alternator’s job is to replace a relatively small amount of discharged power within a short space of time. When this job is done the alternator concentrates on supplying the vehicles power requirements. On a boat this system invariably runs short as the alternator is required to supply and maintain virtually a 24 hour demand, especially in a ‘live aboard’ arrangement. The batteries are only charged for one or two hours daily, at best.

The alternator usually supplies a high initial charge rate that ‘tapers off’ during charging and the result is usually an ‘under charged battery’ about 30% short of its required charge. The answer to this is a fully regulated ‘smart electronics’ system that can balance and manage differing battery types. Onboard, there can typically be input variables from solar panels, generators, alternators, wind speed gennys and battery chargers. This lot requires razor precision management, juggling lots of electrical balls in the air.

However, for the moment, with many craft, the real secret of adequate charging is matched input/output voltages, sensible battery matching and a decent marine alternator that is built for the job and conditions. A decent marine alternator will probably be 80 amp output, ignition protected (preventing accidental ignition of hazardous vapours) decent totally enclosed bearings, encapsulated wiring and corrosion resistant fittings.

All this luxury don’t come cheap but, by golly, you’ll be taking the first step in procuring a decent charging system that will punch some life into your much maligned batteries. Matched to a decent maintenance schedule your benefits will always be a greater trust in your electrical system and eventually, dollars rattling around in your pockets.

Terry Buddell is a freelance journalist and a Marine surveyor, boat designer and shipwright,
He lives on board his yacht “The Nicky J Miller’ that he built himself in The Gold Coast Australia and
has sailed his yacht up the East Coast to the beautiful Whitsunday Islands. He is currently resident in Gladstone Queensland where he is building another boat for his collection! Terry can be contacted on arcus1@bigpond.com or http://www.dolphinboatplans.com

Often when buying a new boat it is extremely easy to over look the state of the water supply. Lost in the wonder of the teak furniture and brass fittings it doesn’t seem important when a couple of treads on the tap pump produce a gurgle, a puff of dust and an irritated spider. Even if you’ve owned your boat for years and with cruising time at a premium it is often the most simple of jobs that will be put to one side.

A common problem on board a boat will be the availability of a fresh sweet supply of drinking water. Many of the boats I’ve shipped aboard had water supplies that, quite frankly, I wouldn’t allow a dog to drink…so, what happens to the clear fresh stuff that ends up in your onboard tanks to make it taste so foul?

Delivery hoses
Quite often a primary sources of contamination is the Marina hose itself. This much maligned piece of equipment is left to lay around in all weathers in puddles of diesel and fish heads, steaming in the sun. Small wonder that groups of algae proliferate inside and get washed into unsuspecting water tanks. Having your own hose on board alleviates this problem but this hose must be stored in a cool and dry place on board.

The tanks
Once on board, the fresh water mixes into the existing water remaining in the tanks that is already suspect and the cycle begins over. Many tanks are fitted with inspection hatches but all to often it’s too much bother even to look at the tank, let alone drain it and remove the hatch for tank cleaning. If you are one of the odd one or two in a million you’ll scrape out the sediment and brush or wet-vacuum the residue. Calcium deposits can be removed with a solution of Caustic Soda. Care, gloves and goggles required here please!

Another small but positive source of contamination is a tank vent hole that is damaged or worn, allowing ingress of dirt and insects back into the tank. A ‘gooseneck’ that rises in a 180º bend above the pipe will help the situation here.

Tanks, incidentally are placed generally according to the wisdom of the Naval Architect with due regard to stability and space requirements. Any extra tanks or containers for storing water must be stored sensibly. At over 10lbs per gallon it must be placed where it can’t crash around causing instability, damage and leaks.

Another couple of points to watch for with tanks is if they have been home made or even added later, it’s not unusual for a single wall to divide water and fuel in one unit. This is to be avoided like the plague as badly made tanks develop leaks by osmotic action and contamination. Water in the fuel is disastrous and styrene that leaches from the fibreglass is no less than a poison, which if taken in sufficient amounts can cause ill health to say the least. If a tank is suspected, condemn it or at the very least flush it out with acetic acid and water. It then must be dried and re-surfaced inside with epoxy and the correct coatings to seal the tanks inside.

Pipes
Plastic pipes are a real bonus in today’s plumbing systems but many pipes to be found on board are of the incorrect grade of plastic. These must be the correct ‘drinking or potable water’ grade as the wrong pipes taint the taste forever. If any pipes are clear and exposed to light, algal growths can grow inside. These particular horrors are normally green and slimy, fairly harmless but make the water taste totally stagnant! Never position a water tank or pipes close to a heat source such as engine or exhaust pipe as the warm water increases chances of bacteria breeding with nasty results in taste and colour.
Wherever plumbing pipes area cracked or damaged, replace them immediately. Once every 18 months it’s good practise to seal up all outlets and flush the whole system with a mild bleach solution and flush well with water. Many chandlers stock suitable pipe cleaners. Remember, most pubs flush their pipes out at least once a week!

Filters
Although blindingly obvious, replaceable filter cartridges are often forgotten, year after year, hidden away under floorboards. If the cartridge is ten years old, it will be filled with ten years worth of trapped gunge, check ‘em out then throw ‘em out!

Finally
As with all chores that consume time and energy on board, a complete strip down of the water system may not ever be considered a priority if you only haunt inland waters. However, if your plans are of the sea-faring sort, be careful. A little hard work now could well prevent a disaster that could contaminate all your precious supplies. As an added precaution, keep plenty of bottled spring water on board in case of the ultimate emergency. Once clean, the tanks can be kept fresh by using proprietary brands of Calcium Hypochlorite tablets that can be added to the tanks from time to time. If in doubt at all, boil all supplies of water and be suspect of ice cubes! Nine litres a day per person is an average amount per person to plan for but conditions may alter, forcing increased consumption- plan ahead!

The old saying ‘Water, water everywhere but not a drop to drink’ can become horribly true at sea. At best, the wife, kids and friends won’t be pleased if you wreck their holiday with belly aches and plastic flavoured tea…Yuk!

Terry Buddell is a freelance journalist and a Marine surveyor, boat designer and shipwright,
He lives on board his yacht “The Nicky J Miller’ that he built himself in The Gold Coast Australia and
has sailed his yacht up the East Coast to the beautiful Whitsunday Islands. He is currently resident in Gladstone Queensland where he is building another boat for his collection! Terry can be contacted on arcus1@bigpond.com or http://www.dolphinboatplans.com

So you’ve decided to buy a boat? Congratulations! Each year people all over the World decide to do the same thing. However, a lot of these people will be experienced boat-buyers. On the other hand, there are many potential buyers who find no shame in admitting that they couldn’t find their way around a kayak armed with a million-watt searchlight on a sunny day. On a scale of one to ten, where are you?

A FEW GROUND RULES
Let’s presuppose a couple of things:
1. The boat you want is an elderly wooden sailing boat and;
2. You fall into the last category, about 9 on the scale.

My advice is ‘Spend money on a survey if you think you need to and spend money on a survey anyway.’

A professional survey is just that. You’re paying someone with experience and knowledge (the key word) to do something you can’t. You’ve got to pay for that.

BRING A LEARNED FRIEND
What if you really can’t afford a survey or that it’s just not practical? The next step is to bring along someone who does know something about the boat you want to buy. A yachtie friend or club member who owns a similar boat, for example. This reduces the chances of you (a novice) buying two and a half tons of soggy ply and twelve kilos of rusty nails masquerading as ‘The buy of the Century’.

ARM YOURSELF BEFORE YOU GO
There’s a bit that you can do to save yourself a wasted journey. A few questions on the phone could save you time and money. Get a pencil, make a list.
1. What was the date of the last known survey/insurance certificate? Beware of paper certificates… In this day of computers documents can be convincingly forged…Ask to see the originals wherever possible…Don’t trust photocopies. Surveys and insurance documents have a limited life-span.
2. Is the boat out of the water? If so, where?…How long has she been out? A wooden hull can dry out rapidly in a week or two and the planks will shrink leaving huge cracks. Be careful of a boat that has been out for months unprotected from the sun.
3. Can the seller prove the boat is his to sell? If not, why not? A broker has a responsibility to guarantee title on all boats that he sells. It must be in a safe, seaworthy condition unless otherwise specified. Remember, It could be stolen. Check with your local Department of Consumer Affairs about ‘Revs for Boats’…they can tell you, for a small fee, if there are outstanding debts and also the Police have lists of missing and stolen craft.
4. Try to have a little knowledge of the kind of construction the boat has. Buy, beg or borrow any books that can help you in your search… there are dozens of them. Bone up on the engine, gearbox and other gear that it may have on board.
5. Bring a torch.. handy for those dark corners!
6. Have a good idea what you will and won’t pay.

WHEN YOU GET THERE
If things aren’t as expected or you get evasive or very smooth answers about things which are obviously not right, ask a few pointed questions (politely, of course)…..Why is there concrete poured in the bilges?…….Why is the battery flat? If you get no joy, perhaps this is the time to point out that you have other boats to see.

Oh yes, another delicate subject. When searching for rot, don’t start hacking great lumps out of the paintwork with a pointy knife. The boat is not your property and you’ve not been invited on board to vandalise his boat at your leisure. You are likely to get chucked over the side and receive a damn great bill for repairs and damages… quite right too!!

Don’t be too critical! People can be sensitive about their boat (even if it isn’t up to much) Most wooden boats are not up to Lloyds A1 standards…nothing kills a deal more effectively than aggressive tyre kickers deliberately rubbishing the boat to knock down the price…Be subtle. A little compromise could get you a fair deal.

A FEW OTHER POINTS
If the boat is in the water, you won’t be able to see the hull. That is pretty important. If you want to inspect it you’ll have to pay for slipping fees unless otherwise agreed. If so, get it in writing!

The old argument rages on about ‘glassing’ or ‘sheathing’ wooden hulls. Everyone is entitled to their own opinion. I don’t believe in it unless it’s constructed like that from new! Now, I’ll tell you why.

Traditional wooden boats weren’t built to be glassed over. The way they are built dictates the way they move or ‘work’, especially sailing vessels. Glass ‘em over and different strains work the boat and eventually the glass breaks away partly from the hull….next thing, rain or sea water seeps inside and the boat has a death sentence on it from there on in.

A FINAL THOUGHT
If you think the purpose of this article is to frighten you, you’re right. Money is hard to come by but there are folks who’ll take it off you any way they can. What I’ve written is to keep you, the boat buying punter, firmly in possession of your hard earned cash until you are convinced that you are doing the right thing. After all, how many boats will you buy in a lifetime? You can’t really be an expert, especially on wooden boats. All is not doom and gloom, there are a great many honest boats and people out there and to buy a bargain for the right price can be a satisfying experience! Happy Hunting!

A CHECK LIST FOR A WOODEN YACHT

1. PLANKING
Cracks, splits and sprung butt ends suggest loose fastenings. Check for rot gently using a small knife or screwdriver, especially at the waterline.

2.SEAMS
Check for rotted caulking and for security. Re-caulking may be required.

3.PAINTWORK
Excess weed suggests poor maintenance as does smelly, diesel filled bilges inside the hull. Lack of antifoul can allow damage by marine growths especially ship-worm. Check carefully for signs of worm. They get in through pinholes, chew and chew until the planks become powder! If worm is suspected, get professional help!

4.PATCHES OR TINGLES
Copper, fibreglass or wood, they come in all shapes and sizes. They are there for a reason and your job is to find out why. They are temporary bodges really, what are they hiding? Plenty of patches mean plenty of room for discussion concerning a reduced price, there will be plenty of work to do, for sure.

5. PROPELLER AND SHAFT /BEARINGS
Check these all for electrolysis, splits and damage. Check the bearing for play by lifting it up and down. If water drips out then it’s getting in, definitely. Is the shaft worn to excess or even bent?

6. ANODES
How many? How good? If they are badly corroded they are doing their job. Have a good look on all other metal surfaces to see if a good corrosion job has been done on them too.

7. HULL FITTINGS
Metal or plastic, check them for security. Check filters for effectiveness, metal ones for corrosion. A favourite is to use household brass fitting to save money…. they fall apart as they dezinctify.

8. STEM, TRANSOM AND RUDDER
All of these component parts should be strong, secure and in fine condition. Check for worn pintles or rudder bearings and ensure they are not loose.

9. RIGGING
Check all rigging wire for rust, wear and worn fittings. Check ropes and sheets for mould and blocks for security and wear.

10. SAILS
Sails cost a fortune! Unfurl and check for strained or ripped seams, tears, mildew and general aging. Canvas can rot and Nylon becomes brittle with age and sunlight.

11. MASTS AND SPARS
Inspect carefully for splits (shakes) and rot behind fittings.

12. DECKS
Decks can leak and are often a major job. Check them out on a rainy day, if not hose ‘em down!! Look for loose fittings, cracked ‘paying’ in between the planks and damage around strained or loose deck fittings.

13. BELOW DECKS
Look for tell tale stains, watermarks and poor paint work. Has she been under?… You’ll see the ‘tidemark’ some where around the floor line if she has. Mildew, wet and dry rot and peeling woodwork can be traced with eyes and nose….

14. ENGINE
A tricky subject, too much for this article, but if in any doubt, bring a marine mechanic not a car one. Watch the owner’s face when you casually suggest an oil analysis check

15. ELECTRICKERY
Once again, a subject for the experts. However, signs of problems can be cracked, burned and brittle wiring. Loose and floppy wiring shows lack of maintenance.

A vast and never ending subject, the care of wooden boats can fill volumes and takes many years of experience to learn. However, even the most knowledgeable amongst us would be the first to agree the golden rule is to: GET A SURVEY DONE!! As you will be paying, get a surveyor of your choice, don’t get talked into having ‘someone I know who’s really good,’ but then again that’s another story!

Remember, with the blind leading the blind someone’s going to fall in the ditch…..Will it be you?

Terry Buddell is a freelance journalist and a Marine surveyor, boat designer and shipwright,
He lives on board his yacht “The Nicky J Miller’ that he built himself in The Gold Coast Australia and
has sailed his yacht up the East Coast to the beautiful Whitsunday Islands. He is currently resident in Gladstone Queensland where he is building another boat for his collection! Terry can be contacted on arcus1@bigpond.com or http://www.dolphinboatplans.com

Often, abused, neglected and taken for granted is the poor old faithful tender. It is easily the least maintained of all craft on the waters of the world today and probably always was! However, the poor thing is expected to give sterling service, twenty-four hours a day in all weathers.

It is fair to say that many tenders should be dragged off the beach and attacked with a good strong chain saw and the resulting flotsam used to stoke up the barby…however, for the others that remain afloat, there are a few things that may take them into the next millenium, with a stroke of luck!

CATEGORIES
Well, basically all that we have to deal with are four kinds. Wooden, aluminium, rubber and fibreglass. Let’s kick off with the first category.

TIMBER
Very many existing tenders are constructed from ply and these are often in exceedingly poor repair. They are given the most cursory nod as a rule and only looked at when a foot goes through the bottom. The greatest protection of all is generally three things, paint, paint and more paint. If the wood is protected from the weather, greater is the chance of survival. Before painting your tender, DRY it out thoroughly, it’ll have a lot more chance of letting the paint actually stick to it…If it doesn’t have a drain plug, then fit one…It’ll give it twice the life if water is not allowed to accumulate. Oh yes, secure the bungs with lanyards. Holes may be rudely repaired with a good old square patch using epoxy and bronze screws.

Flotation is always highly recommended in ply dinghies and may be in the form of sealed polystyrene glued under seats. Also, inflatable beach balls stuffed in lockers and then inflated are cheap and safe. Always tie your rowlocks on with nylon rope and repair all damage the instant it is done.

Finally, wash it out thoroughly and store upside down when not in use and replace all painters and leads regularly. I’m not supposed to say this either but in the case of a very leaky tender, a quick efficient repair may be undertaken by turning over the boat, thoroughly drying out, then painting rubberised bitumen paint over the bottom several times. It won’t last forever but it will work for a while.

INFLATABLES
An old favourite is the inflatable. Giving many years of reliable service they have huge buoyancy, require little maintenance and are extremely light. So much so they are the favourite prey of those vile beings that lurk around boatyards and relieve you of your much loved rubber ducky…boiling in hot tar is too good for them, but I digress…as mentioned, little maintenance is needed. However, some care must be taken if your inflatable is not to end up looking like a pile of tired old elephant’s intestines!

Often forgotten is the bottom of the inflatable. Take care where you land and don’t drag it over rough beaches. Always try to carry it if you can. Check regularly for scuffs and if you have any deep scores put a patch over it before it is punctured.

Wooden floor boards are often neglected and left unvarnished and with water accumulating underneath. If this is rainwater the boards will rot quicker than if it is salt. Take them out and varnish ‘em on a regular basis. If they are split, smooth them off to prevent chafing and sudden punctures… an inflatable with no air in is as much use as a hat rack is to a moose…

Put the anchor and chain into a plastic bucket to prevent rust stains and damage. Check all ropes, lanyards and painters regularly.

A common problem with inflatables is too much pressure. An inflatable pumped up in the cool of the morning will expand with the heat of the sun and severely strain or split the joins. Ensure that this does not happen with regular checking.

Clean by hosing all sand, grit and broken shells out on a regular basis and keep it clean at all times. A dropped fish hook in an inflatable has much the same effect as Saddam Hussein on World Peace…

Lastly, ensure that if you do get punctured ensure that you always have the manufacturer’s recommended repair kit and take great pains to read the instructions thoroughly. Wherever possible, keep your inflatable stored out of the sun and invest in a large padlock and chain.

FIBREGLASS
Normally glass tenders are in a bad state of repair and owner’s often see little point in repairing dings and scuffs. If you are one of those people that like to see things looking good, a ding can be repaired using a gel-coat repair kit. Car repair putty is porous and will eventually bulge and drop off like a leech and epoxy is the best of all for repairing fibreglass.

Where timber rubbing strakes are missing or rotted, you’ll lose strength in the boat’s rigidity and it’ll pay to replace them. If they are not replaced the hull will flex, craze and crack. All timber should be kept in good repair by coating with varnish. If you have varnishing, use epoxy. It will eventually dull but you can always paint it over later on.

Cruelly referred to as ‘washing-up bowls’ glass dinghies however, have a well earned reputation for longevity and reliability and remain a firm favourite.

ALUMINIUM
Isn’t it incredible just how much damage the good old tinny will sustain. They seem to last forever and it’s no surprise that the tinny is such a firm favourite. No maintenance seems to be the order of the day but the long suffering tinny can be made to suffer even longer if a few basic rules are adhered to.

Never leave seawater and steel objects lying in the bottom of the boat. Always drain the tinny and flush with fresh water after use. Never repair the tinny with steel or monel rivets. Localised corrosion will weaken the repair with dire results. As with steel objects, never leave wet rags in the boat at all.

Don’t leave tinnys in the water for extended periods, especially near mooring jetties with shore power supplied. Stray electrical currents can eat the bottom faster than you’d believe!

If repairing your much battered aluminium boat, don’t just use any old ally sheet that you find down the tip. They must be repaired with correct alloys that are especially formulated for use with sea water. Alloys containing copper are a disaster as is Duralumin. Both will corrode extremely quickly as will incorrect fastenings that might be used for the repair. Seek advice from you local tinny manufacturer and don’t use car repair rivets, no way! Another useful repair material for aluminium is epoxy glue. If the surface is properly repaired it can be used together with bi-axial glass cloths and the repair can be extremely strong. Polyester resins and chopped strand mat will eventually delaminate… be warned.

FENDERS
All of the above tenders can be preserved for many years longer by the intelligent use of fenders and rubber rubbing strakes. A thick length of rope around a wooden dinghy will make an effective rubbing strake.

It’s a sad fact that many folks leave their tenders in a terrible woebegone state and when asked why the answer is usually, “Well, who’d nick that bloody thing?”

One must agree in a way but you also have to remember the fact that you and your families lives are fully dependent on that scruffy little cockshell…it may look vile but there’s no excuse on planet earth for it to be unseaworthy and dangerous.

Terry Buddell is a freelance journalist and a Marine surveyor, boat designer and shipwright,
He lives on board his yacht “The Nicky J Miller’ that he built himself in The Gold Coast Australia and
has sailed his yacht up the East Coast to the beautiful Whitsunday Islands. He is currently resident in Gladstone Queensland where he is building another boat for his collection! Terry can be contacted on arcus1@bigpond.com or http://www.dolphinboatplans.com